My 600whp Drag Evo

Thanks to Joe @ Red Jack Racing, my amazing, divided T3 manifold has come in. Need to find some heat shielding for that AN hose so close to the turbine housing. Car is scheduled to be put back together on Monday & Tuesday, some final work by my loyal mechanic on Wednesday and finally, starting on Friday. If all goes well obviously :).
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2012-12-30
Hi all, Unfortunately, the car did not run in 2012. Maybe too optimistic about getting it running with so little time on my hands. Despite that, I am still working on it, and have encountered an issue I need help with. There is no pulse from the injectors when hand turning the CAS. I want to be sure I have fuel & spark before cranking the engine over, which is why I am looking for this. Here are some of the details I have gathered so far: With key on engine off (KOEO), turning the cam angle sensor (CAS) by hand, yields no ticking from any of the injectors;
The computer (ECU) appears to be booting up fine when turning to key to the ON position, the check engine light (CEL) comes on for 5 seconds and disappears;
The starter relay appears to be functioning, it clicks when the key is move to the ON position;
The starer appears to be getting power, as it makes a series of audible clicks when the key is turned to the ON position;
With KOEO, voltage at both pins of the injector clips = battery voltage;
ABS warning light appears on the dash, this light used to be present when I had a short 2 years ago;
With KOEO, CAS is seeing appropriate voltage (white 5v, black small .88v, red 11.9v, black large 0.03v);
With KOEO, negative side of voltmeter (multimeter) on negative battery terminal, positive side of voltmeter on either pins of of the injector clips yields no continuity, this I beleive is as it should be;
With KOEO, I get no voltage on the harness side of the resistor pack, this I am not sure of.

2013-01-01
As I mentioned in the previous post, I am experiencing a no spark no pulse condition. This issue stems from my recent wire-tuck, at least it is likely to stem from that. All system were functional prior to the wire tuck. So onto the wiring I started working. Dug up some wiring diagrams for which the 4pin cam angle sensor (CAS) was used (1G 93-94). Do some crosschecking between the 1G ECU pinouts and the early evo pinouts.
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CAS connector is identified as B32 on the above diagram. Tracing each individual wires leads you to the following:
pin 1 is the CAM position signal wire
pin 2 is the CRANK position signal wire
pin 3 is the +12v wire
pin 4 is the ground
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Luckily, there is some literature available that allows you to find an equivalent for the cam and crank signal wire. As such, the tracing of the wiring should be as follows for the early EVO:
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This sends me to pin 2, which is supposed to connect straight to ECU pin 69 of the early evo diagram. This wire is black, and was, unfortunately, teeing off between ECU pin 69 and a chassis ground. As such, the signal was never received by the ECU when cam angle sensor (CAS) was being turned by hand. Separate the wire from the ground and VOILA! Spark and injector pulse are present. Problem solved. Up next: getting my FMIC piping welded :)

2013-01-02
Good news. The battery draining short circuit was the slight wire mishap mentioned in my previous post. This means my battery no longer drains. Onto some progress. I've installed the Hallman Boost Controller and the Erbified Motorsports coolant overflow. The compressor cover serves as the boost source for the HBC (Hallman Boost Controller). Both fittings, available from Hallman Boost Controllers, turn the usual barb fittings into neat, -4AN fittings. The right one is a 120° -4AN fitting I got directly from MAPerformance.
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Don't think I will have room for a filter. Few layers of metal mesh on the turbo shall suffice.
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The oil will flow to and from the OFH (oil filter housing) to the internal oil cooler housed in the right side radiator end tank. This hose is -8AN sized. I hope this allows me appropriate heat absorption and potentially even help me drive this on the street without overheating. Despite being tucked, the wiring harness is still a mess :) Before making it all pretty, and wrapped, gotta be sure there's no more hiccups! Zip ties everywhere LOL.
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Quick question, can anyone help me identify what these are? Both were around the driver side fusebox.

Unknown evo relay #1
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Unknown evo relay #2
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1. it runs great, sounds mean & nasty, but a few quirks
2. my OFH is leaking, did not know they were bsp fittings, tapped NPT fittings in them. they seemed pretty tight lol.
3. getting evo 9 ofh and welded fittings etc etc
4. -20an hose is too tight, going with nylon hose so I can work with softer hose and larger angles hopefully
5. wire harness is going great, heres some pics. black: signal, red: power, yellow: ground
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ben hate de voir rouler ca cette bébite la.

Moi aussi !!!

wow incredible

Thank you my friend.

Super build! *tu*

Merci!!

Car runs, idles nicely, low FP @ mid throttle. New fuel setup on the way. In the meantime, finishing up the wiring. Did the driver side door harness this morning, its the completed one in the pictures. Forgot to merge the two AMP connectors before heat shrinking the braided sleeving arghhh. Means there is 2 connectors to connect between the dash & driver door harness. OCD? Probably lol.
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nice Deustch connector (quite heavy duty but pricy as fuck). usually though, black = ground, yellow = signal, red = power. but it's a matter of preferences. as long as you know it and the wires are well tagged, shouldnt be a problem for whoever work on it.
 
Slight update, working on things like finishing the wiring & bolting this fuel cell. Like my interior? Your seats in the back. LOL

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