Car Bra for winter?

Discovery

Active member
What you guys think about car bra for winter only? I'm getting my bumper and hood repainted on my car, i would like it to remain stone chip free as long as possible. Do it will do more bad than good?
Discuss.

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its better to have a 3m pelicule all over the hood bumper fender and its transparent the products today are alot better than before and will not getting yellow over time !

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Vinyl it instead of the bra, it's not only that anything going under it will rub and scratch the hell out of it, it also keep moisture in.
 
its better to have a 3m pelicule all over the hood bumper fender and its transparent the products today are alot better than before and will not getting yellow over time !

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Quoted @ 600$ for 3m shizzle


Vinyl it instead of the bra, it's not only that anything going under it will rub and scratch the hell out of it, it also keep moisture in.

Car stay outside but, cleaned every week, even in winter. Do a thick coat of wax, before bra install, would help with the scratching?

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Wax doesn't protect against scratching.

The best protection is 3M type clear film over the ENTIRE hood and fenders so you don't get that nasty mis-matched color/finish and line of built up dirt on the edge.

$600 is EXTREMELY cheap. Most of my clients who take my advice and get the whole hood, bumper and fenders done get billed upwards of $1500.
 
I had a full bra on one of my cars a few years back. It was awesome and not one scratch, I did clean it at least once every 2 weeks if not once a week.
 
Paye pour une vraie peinture. Colle pas le monde dans le cul. Lave ton char une fois par mois au moins. Cire ton char. /end.
 
Quoted @ 600$ for 3m shizzle




Car stay outside but, cleaned every week, even in winter. Do a thick coat of wax, before bra install, would help with the scratching?

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NO.

Clear bra or take it as it is. Sand WILL get between the paint and bra and will scratch your paint. No mather what you do..
Thick coats of wax are the worst they dont protect. Thinner is better btw.

Yes I know, its expensive (3m bra), but its not the same game.
 
Wax doesn't protect against scratching.

The best protection is 3M type clear film over the ENTIRE hood and fenders so you don't get that nasty mis-matched color/finish and line of built up dirt on the edge.

$600 is EXTREMELY cheap. Most of my clients who take my advice and get the whole hood, bumper and fenders done get billed upwards of $1500.

Better of repainting the car at that price..
 
Better of repainting the car at that price..

The idea is to preserve the paint and not have to go through the process of repainting it. 5-6 years down the road when it's time to sell the car, by pulling off the PPF, you have beautiful, well-preserved paint that has never been redone (if someone brings a paint gauge and sees the car has been repainted, they will undoubtedly ask questions, especially if it wasn't declared to insurance such as would be the case). a well preserved paint will net 15-20% higher value for a similar car with paint in rough condition.

Additionally, like FILION says here:

you will never get a paint-job nearly good as the factory for 1500$

Even at $4000 which is a good ballpark range for a full quality respray, it will never be as good as factory because it will not have been heat cured.

Some guys down in California, where they take cars much more seriously than here, will have the entire car wrapped in clear PPF for roughly 3-4K$.
 
its better to have a 3m pelicule all over the hood bumper fender and its transparent the products today are alot better than before and will not getting yellow over time !

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so says the marketing stuff.

they were also telling this 10 years ago with the old stuff.

I am still sure that these films will get yellow and/or flaky over time, unless garaged....

IMO the best would be a vinyl or plastidip for the winter
 
Or just don't worry about it

X2 J'ai jamais compris le but de ces trucs pour "sauver" la peinture.

Si c'est pour garder une valeur de revente, à 1500$ faut que tu ai un char qui vaut cher en maudit pour avoir un bon retour sur l'investissement.

Si c'est juste pour avoir une belle peinture, ben la peinture est peut être ben belle en dessous mais elle est caché par une cochonnerie qui est laitte.
 
X2 J'ai jamais compris le but de ces trucs pour "sauver" la peinture.

Y'a du monde qui aime avoir des "Nice things" et bien s'en occuper. c'est comme n'importe quoi dans la vie.

Si c'est pour garder une valeur de revente, à 1500$ faut que tu ai un char qui vaut cher en maudit pour avoir un bon retour sur l'investissement.

Metton une voiture cheap/pas cher de $25, 000, dans 4-5 ans quand c'est le temps de la vendre, si une en condition moyenne vaut $10, 000, mais qu'une avec un body top shape (peinture originale, pas maganer) va chercher $11, 500+. On "brake even." C'est pas dur d'avoir un plus grand retour sur une voiture qui est legerment plus chere.

Si c'est juste pour avoir une belle peinture, ben la peinture est peut être ben belle en dessous mais elle est caché par une cochonnerie qui est laitte.

Si la job est bein faite, ca devrait pas etre laitte, ni meme paraitre. Mais la grande avantage c'est surtout pour eviter les graffigne profonde et les rock chips, qui avec le temps, peuvent causer des spots de rouille qui forcerais donc un re-spray.

Vaut mieux prevenir que guerir. :p



EDIT - oui du Glossifier peut marcher, mais en comparo, le "Paint Defender" de 3M est plus efficase. 2-3 cannes sont nessesaire pour faire le hood au complet.
 
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