mpcv2000
Moderator
March 15 2015.
Last ride with my car ( Montreal - Quebec ) round trip my transmission started to make some noise ( like bearing noise ) at cruising speed , if I put in in neutral it stops so while I have the transmission on the floor I've decided to attempts my first overhaul on my 1993 Mustang LX 5.0L Borg-Warner World Class T-5 Transmission.
I have never split a transmission apart of my life so let see if I can do it.
Here's some number I found on my transmission ( reference for me ) .
13-52-066-939
13-052-065-921
F2ZR-7003-AA
REP-AW
13-52-208
47517 B1132
PF149619
Ford Racing # M-7000-A T5 W/C Rebuild kit .
Tons of pictures for reference when I become lost......
Inside this pieces there is a shim and the bearing cup
When you remove this switch don't forget the little pin , pull it out with a magnet.
Push this spring pin in.
Remove the bolts from the tail section.
Pull the case while holding the shifter block in you hand because parts will fly out.
Right away remove the roll pin you pushed in a few minutes back because if you don't do it and push a new one on top of it you'll be screwed if you ever need to take it apart again you'll have to cut the shift shaft.
Remove the bolt from the top cover
Break the Silicone lose and push the cover ( toward my wall )
After that you can lift it.
You can now removed the input shaft but be careful there is 15 needle that will fall in the transmission if you don't tilt it ( nose down ) like I did.
There is only one way to remove the inputshaft and to do so you have to line up that notch with a gear to slide it out.
On this picture you'll see I lost 2 roller inside the transmission...
remove the snap ring and not on the picture push out the roll pin of the fork to slide the whole assembly out.
When done you can remove the main shaft from inside out through the top cover.
Don't forget this little guy "spacer" between the input shaft and the main shaft.
Now removing this shaft ( don't know it's name ) but to do so you need to remove the bearing and ( since I have no tool ) tool I had to cut it.
Empty case.
Back to our main output shaft.
I have cut the old bearing to remove it and pushed a new one in.
Removed the cup of the lower shaft.
Just tap it out.
I have cut and removed the bearing that sits in that cup.
Put new one in
Something you should not do is put the 2nd bearing on that shaft when it out of the transmission case because it will not go back in.
I had to buy a puller to remove it ( 1st time I cut the old one out ) but this one is new.
Now the main shaft.
Pull the outer part of that piece
Puller I had in stock.
Remove spring locking ring
Tricky little locking ring to remove.
Split this thing apart
All kind of pieces will fall off
Remove the speedo gear
Remove this big locking ring
Using a rag , grab the gear with your hand and tap on the top part of the shaft the gear will slide out.
Now you can separate everything.
Be careful with this , the pin will come out so if you don't pay attention you'll be in trouble when you'll put it back.
Bare shaft.
Since I have "0" experience rebuilding transmission I told you earlier not to put a bearing in before the shaft was in the case so I had to buy a puller to remove it without destroying it.
Worked out perfectly.
Ready to put this shaft in but before I had to put the cup in.
empty
Cup installed.
Shaft in with no bearing on the right side ( the only way to put it back in )
Now putting the bearing on.
I just push it in with the old bearing , hammer & punch.
Not the best way but I have no press so.
I have put the cover back on with the old shim and preload on the bearings appears fine to me.
Now time to put the main shaft back together.
New part bottom old parts top.
New
Old , see the wear on the right one ?
Not sure of the name of that ( Syncro ) ? anyhow top is old and bottom new.
The is 3 needle bearing like that in the transmission and my kit came only with 2.
The one on each end of the pictures are new and the middle one is the old one , I had to reuse it since it was not in the kit somehow. :dunno:
This side is back together.
Other side
Right new left old
Main shaft back in
Now lets work on this.
Again my kit was missing one brass syncro so I had to salvage the best of the 2 old one I had.
One was pretty bad ( left one )
This was pretty worn out.
Back together.
Before closing the tail housing case make sure the little tab is lined up correctly to match the case , the is a place inside the case where the tab fit.
Now lets work on putting the cover with the forks back on but before I have replace the little plastic sliders.
Put RTV and put the cover back on the same was you removed it.
That's it looks like I just did a full T5 Transmission rebuilt. :bigup:
J'ai laisser l'auto sur le lift , je l'ai demarrer et essayer la transmission et le tout semble fonctionner parfaitement , c'est beaucoup plus "tight" qu'avant , j'ai hate de faire le test dans la rue incluant la 4.10 .
Apres mon Road "lift" test j'ai pas plus m'empecher d'essayer mes nouvelle roues.
Le garage est pas assez grand pour prendre de bonne photo mais voici ce que ca donne.
Oublier pas que ca fait 4 mois que le char est sur le lift donc en le mettant parterre ca va prendre une couple de jour pour qu'il revienne a sa hauteur normale.
Apres mon test je me suis rendu compte que ma pompe a eau coule.
Ca jamais couler avant donc dans le prochaine semaine je vais remplacer le gasket et demenager ma couette de fils du cote droit dans la fausse aile comme j'ai fait du cote gauche.
Aucune idee pourquoi soudainnement le gasket de la pompe a eau decide de couler .
Anyway , c'est un char projet donc le but c'est de le demonter et le remonter et c'est ce que j'aime faire. :bigup:
Last ride with my car ( Montreal - Quebec ) round trip my transmission started to make some noise ( like bearing noise ) at cruising speed , if I put in in neutral it stops so while I have the transmission on the floor I've decided to attempts my first overhaul on my 1993 Mustang LX 5.0L Borg-Warner World Class T-5 Transmission.
I have never split a transmission apart of my life so let see if I can do it.
Here's some number I found on my transmission ( reference for me ) .
13-52-066-939
13-052-065-921
F2ZR-7003-AA
REP-AW
13-52-208
47517 B1132
PF149619
Ford Racing # M-7000-A T5 W/C Rebuild kit .
Tons of pictures for reference when I become lost......
Inside this pieces there is a shim and the bearing cup
When you remove this switch don't forget the little pin , pull it out with a magnet.
Push this spring pin in.
Remove the bolts from the tail section.
Pull the case while holding the shifter block in you hand because parts will fly out.
Right away remove the roll pin you pushed in a few minutes back because if you don't do it and push a new one on top of it you'll be screwed if you ever need to take it apart again you'll have to cut the shift shaft.
Remove the bolt from the top cover
Break the Silicone lose and push the cover ( toward my wall )
After that you can lift it.
You can now removed the input shaft but be careful there is 15 needle that will fall in the transmission if you don't tilt it ( nose down ) like I did.
There is only one way to remove the inputshaft and to do so you have to line up that notch with a gear to slide it out.
On this picture you'll see I lost 2 roller inside the transmission...
remove the snap ring and not on the picture push out the roll pin of the fork to slide the whole assembly out.
When done you can remove the main shaft from inside out through the top cover.
Don't forget this little guy "spacer" between the input shaft and the main shaft.
Now removing this shaft ( don't know it's name ) but to do so you need to remove the bearing and ( since I have no tool ) tool I had to cut it.
Empty case.
Back to our main output shaft.
I have cut the old bearing to remove it and pushed a new one in.
Removed the cup of the lower shaft.
Just tap it out.
I have cut and removed the bearing that sits in that cup.
Put new one in
Something you should not do is put the 2nd bearing on that shaft when it out of the transmission case because it will not go back in.
I had to buy a puller to remove it ( 1st time I cut the old one out ) but this one is new.
Now the main shaft.
Pull the outer part of that piece
Puller I had in stock.
Remove spring locking ring
Tricky little locking ring to remove.
Split this thing apart
All kind of pieces will fall off
Remove the speedo gear
Remove this big locking ring
Using a rag , grab the gear with your hand and tap on the top part of the shaft the gear will slide out.
Now you can separate everything.
Be careful with this , the pin will come out so if you don't pay attention you'll be in trouble when you'll put it back.
Bare shaft.
Since I have "0" experience rebuilding transmission I told you earlier not to put a bearing in before the shaft was in the case so I had to buy a puller to remove it without destroying it.
Worked out perfectly.
Ready to put this shaft in but before I had to put the cup in.
empty
Cup installed.
Shaft in with no bearing on the right side ( the only way to put it back in )
Now putting the bearing on.
I just push it in with the old bearing , hammer & punch.
Not the best way but I have no press so.
I have put the cover back on with the old shim and preload on the bearings appears fine to me.
Now time to put the main shaft back together.
New part bottom old parts top.
New
Old , see the wear on the right one ?
Not sure of the name of that ( Syncro ) ? anyhow top is old and bottom new.
The is 3 needle bearing like that in the transmission and my kit came only with 2.
The one on each end of the pictures are new and the middle one is the old one , I had to reuse it since it was not in the kit somehow. :dunno:
This side is back together.
Other side
Right new left old
Main shaft back in
Now lets work on this.
Again my kit was missing one brass syncro so I had to salvage the best of the 2 old one I had.
One was pretty bad ( left one )
This was pretty worn out.
Back together.
Before closing the tail housing case make sure the little tab is lined up correctly to match the case , the is a place inside the case where the tab fit.
Now lets work on putting the cover with the forks back on but before I have replace the little plastic sliders.
Put RTV and put the cover back on the same was you removed it.
That's it looks like I just did a full T5 Transmission rebuilt. :bigup:
J'ai laisser l'auto sur le lift , je l'ai demarrer et essayer la transmission et le tout semble fonctionner parfaitement , c'est beaucoup plus "tight" qu'avant , j'ai hate de faire le test dans la rue incluant la 4.10 .
Apres mon Road "lift" test j'ai pas plus m'empecher d'essayer mes nouvelle roues.
Le garage est pas assez grand pour prendre de bonne photo mais voici ce que ca donne.
Oublier pas que ca fait 4 mois que le char est sur le lift donc en le mettant parterre ca va prendre une couple de jour pour qu'il revienne a sa hauteur normale.
Apres mon test je me suis rendu compte que ma pompe a eau coule.
Ca jamais couler avant donc dans le prochaine semaine je vais remplacer le gasket et demenager ma couette de fils du cote droit dans la fausse aile comme j'ai fait du cote gauche.
Aucune idee pourquoi soudainnement le gasket de la pompe a eau decide de couler .
Anyway , c'est un char projet donc le but c'est de le demonter et le remonter et c'est ce que j'aime faire. :bigup:
