H22 auto tensioner to manual tensioner conversion

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Jeenyus

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Pour ceux et celles qui roulent ou qui veulent rouler avec un H22 modifier(ie:High lift cams,dual hi pressure valve springs,etc...)un swap de tensioneur manuel H23 est serieusement a considerer.Le tensioneur auto du H22 fonctionne avec une pression hydrolique et est sujet a briser avec une augmentation de stress.Donc pour eviter de plier des valves ou pire encore,esitez pas et changer votre tensioneur h22 hydro pour un tensioneur h23 manuel.J'en ai casser 2 avant de swaper pour un de h23.

C'est un swap relativement facile a effectuer comme vous allez pouvoir le constater dans ce DIY.

This seems to be a hot topic for the H22 owners out there. Here is a step by step "how to" conversion to the more reliable H23 (manual) style of tensioner. The H22a block used, is obviously a "mock-up", so don't be critical of the missing pieces. This conversion can be done in the car, but in this case it was done out of the car for illustration purposes only.


Parts list:

13404-PT0-004 - ADJUSTER COMP., BALANCER BELT
13415-PT0-000 - BRACKET, BALANCER BELT ADJUSTER
14510-PT0-004 - ADJUSTER COMP., TIMING BELT
14516-PT2-000 - SPRING COMP., TIMING BELT ADJUSTER
14521-P14-A00 - PLATE, ADJUSTER
90014-P14-A00 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER BASE
90015-PT0-000 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER SPRING
90016-PT0-000 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER
90140-P14-A00 - WASHER, PLAIN (11MM)

Here is a link for the parts list:

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto....(2)

This is a frontal and side shot of what the auto tensioner set up looks like with the timing belt cover, balance shaft crank pulley, balance shaft belt, and timing belt out of the way.
All of these thing will need to be removed to do this conversion.
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Start by removing the auto tensioner pieces. These following pictures should be fairly self explanitory.
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These following pieces will be removed from the h22 in this step and set aside for later use.
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With the parts removed this is what it looks like.
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This step, we will remove the troubsome auto tensioner.
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With the auto tesioner gone, we will remove the rest of the tensioner mechanism. The following pictures should be self explanatory.
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Now, with the complete auto tesioner mechanism removed, we are ready to add the manual tensioner parts.
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This bolt and washer are what we start with. The factory washer is critical! It has a larger diameter than the block casting. This is a factory Honda part #90140-P14-A00 - WASHER, PLAIN (11MM), but for those of you who are lazy or pinching pennies, the diameter is 40mm and the thickness is 1.5mm If the wrong washer is used, improper alignment can occure as well as limited movement of the timing belt tensioner pulley.
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These 2 pieces will be added next.
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Add the timing belt tensioner pulley and check to see if it has full movement on its pivot.
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Next we will install the balance shaft tensioner pulley. For this install, we will re-use the H22 part. The H23 part has a larger spacer that places it further out away from the timing belt pulley. I recomend using the H23 part (not shown), but with a few washers (used as spacers) the H22 pulley (pictured) can be used correctly.
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If you are reusing the H22 part, MAKE SURE THE PULLEYS CLEAR EACH OTHER! This is a common mistake and can be catastrophic. When reusing the h22 balance shaft tensioner pulley, the pulleys must not touch! if you are using a h23 balance shaft tensioner pulley, there is no need to worry. it is already spaced properly.
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Reinstall the balance shaft tensioner retainer.
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Manual style tensioner in place completely. front and side views.
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ALL MOTOR H22 POWERED ACCORD
247.7 WHP 188.4WTQ
12.721 @ 108.30

Yes, it daily driven. :thumbup:

http://www.collectiveracing.net/cgi-bin/CRBoard/ikonboard.cgi?;act=ST;f=11;t=1093
 
good info very nice ... j'ai des problemes avec mon tensionneur avoir su j'aurais fait le swap... next time
 
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