Drilled rotors?

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Lee

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Here are a few quotes from engineers at leading brakes manufacturers. If you thought that drilled rotors are cool. That's indeed true, but they are nothing more than that. So, basically, you pay more and you get less.

"Darrick Dong; Director of Motorsports at Performance Friction: "Anyone that tells you that drilling makes the disc run cooler is smoking crack."

Power Slot: "At one time the conventional wisdom in racing circles was to cross-drill brake rotors to aid cooling and eliminate the gas emitted by brake pads. However, today’s elite teams in open wheel, Indy and Trans Am racing are moving away from crack prone, cross-drilled brake rotors in favor of rotors modified with a fatigue resistant slotting process."

Stop Tech: "StopTech provides rotors slotted, drilled or plain. For most performance applications slotted is the preferred choice. Slotting helps wipe away debris from between the pad and rotor as well as increasing the "bite" characteristics of the pad. A drilled rotor provides the same type of benefit, but is more susceptible to cracking under severe usage. Many customers prefer the look of a drilled rotor and for street and occasional light duty track use they will work fine. For more severe applications, we recommend slotted rotors." (Note that even though Stop Tech sells both drilled and slotted rotors they do not recommend drilled rotors for severe applications.)

Wilwood: "Q: Why are some rotors drilled or slotted?
A: Rotors are drilled to reduce rotating weight, an issue near and dear to racers searching for ways to minimize unsprung weight. Drilling diminishes a rotor's durability and cooling capacity."

From Waren Gilliand: (Warren Gilliland is a well-known brake engineer in the racing industry and has more than 32 years experience in custom designing brake systems ...he became the main source for improving the brake systems on a variety of different race vehicles from midgets to Nascar Winston Cup cars.) "If you cross drill one of these vented rotors, you are creating a stress riser that will encourage the rotor to crack right through the hole. Many of the rotors available in the aftermarket are nothing more than inexpensive offshore manufactured stock replacement rotors, cross drilled to appeal to the performance market. They are not performance rotors and will have a corresponding high failure rate"

From Baer: "What are the benefits to Crossdrilling, Slotting, and Zinc-Washing my rotors?
In years past, crossdrilling and/or Slotting the rotor for racing purposes was beneficial by providing a way to expel the gasses created when the bonding agents employed to manufacture the pads...However, with today’s race pad technology, ‘outgassing’ is no longer much of a concern...Slotted surfaces are what Baer recommends for track only use. Slotted only rotors are offered as an option for any of Baer’s offerings."

Grassroots Motorsports
: "Crossdrilling your rotors might look neat, but what is it really doing for you? Well, unless your car is using brake pads from the '40s and 50s, not a whole lot. Rotors were first drilled because early brake pad materials gave off gasses when heated to racing temperatures, a process known as "gassing out." ...It was an effective solution, but today's friction materials do not exhibit the some gassing out phenomenon as the early pads. Contrary to popular belief, they don't lower temperatures. (In fact, by removing weight from the rotor, they can actually cause temperatures to increase a little.) These holes create stress risers that allow the rotor to crack sooner, and make a mess of brake pads--sort of like a cheese grater rubbing against them at every stop. Want more evidence? Look at NASCAR or F1. You would think that if drilling holes in the rotor was the hot ticket, these teams would be doing it...Slotting rotors, on the other hand, might be a consideration if your sanctioning body allows for it. Cutting thin slots across the face of the rotor can actually help to clean the face of the brake pads over time, helping to reduce the glazing often found during high-speed use which can lower the coefficient of friction. While there may still be a small concern over creating stress risers in the face of the rotor, if the slots are shallow and cut properly, the trade-off appears to be worth the risk. (Have you looked at a NASCAR rotor lately?)

AP Racing: "Grooves improve 'cleaning' of the pad surfaces and result in a more consistent brake performance. Grooved discs have a longer life than cross-drilled discs." "Cross drilled...can compromise disc life. Radiused drilled...mainly used for aesthetic reasons on road applications."

Can I quote myself as I also design and sell racing brake kits as a full time job for Massive? "Drilled rotors are just chicken shit made to impress those who don't really use their brakes. If yours haven't yet badly cracked, it's only because you don't drive hard enough". He, he...

Thanks
 
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I've been using plain for years. Tried slotted a couple of times. As far as I could tell, the main advantage of the slots was to (a) break down the pad material at an alarming rate and (b) deposit the pad material unevenly across the rotor surface, leading to big-time pulsations under braking. I didn't note any performance increase with the slots in my applications, ranging from the tiny OEM brakes on my E30 to the monster brakes on my Evo.

When I bought a big brake kit (from Lee, actually) for the E30, I stuck with plain rotors.

Emre
 
I have indeed never seen motorcycle rotors turn blue from abuse. But it is often the case with cars being heavily tracked. Car rotors sustain way more heat than bikes and don't have the same cooling as the brakes are hidden inside the wheel. Most 450lbs sport bikes have two front discs, same as with 3300lbs cars. And bikes don't go faster than cars nowadays...

I guess that drilled rotors is also a myth that that some shops have help carry on as they can charge more $$$ for holes and can claim it's an "upgrade", just as red painted calipers are an upgrade.

Personally, I much prefer plain rotors, and will totally refuse to sell drilled ones. Sluts are okay to deglaze brake pads. But my thinking is that if pads have glazed, then perhaps they are not the right heat range for a given application. Wilwood makes rotors that have only 6 slots, and two different angles. Found on all 13" and 14" kits.

http://www.wilwood.com/Centers/Photo/Graphics/Flash/1608024.swf
 
tres intéressant! j,ai meme des preuves concretes que les disques crossed drilled finissent par "craquer" j'ai eu des Brembo cross drilled sur mon integra, et en avant apres 1 an je pouvais voir de minuscules fissures commancent au centre du trou..partant en général vers l'intérieur et l'éxtérieur du disque.. pareil des 2 cotés!
 
Cheapest blanks did best for me!:bigup: Tried Brembo blanks, cracked anyway..

My best example why not to buy cross-drilled:

freins1.jpg


Used for 3 months on a street car with cheap pads!
 
Those look like 10$ rotors, look how much rust is on them.

What's the relation with being $10/rotor? Any metal will rust. $10 and $100 rotors.

Remember that this is a track/lapping section. We don't care if we make scratches on rotors. We just use them...
 
j'ai testé les 3 moi-même... J'aime bien les slots étant donné que les pads semble s'user de façon plus égale. Mais d'aucune façon j'ai senti une quelconque amélioration en term de freinage et de fading... La meilleur upgrade reste les braided lines et de l'huile de course... = pédale constante... Ensuite pour la distance et le fading, c'est la qualité des pads qui font toute la différence...

L'ideal serait de pouvoir remettre des disques neufs à chaque semaine!

Encore là c'est toujours une question de compromis... À la limite certains dirons même que des plus les disques s'usent plus ils sont léger donc moins de unsprung weight, mais je préfère de loin le feeling des disques neufs!
 
tres intéressant! j,ai meme des preuves concretes que les disques crossed drilled finissent par "craquer" j'ai eu des Brembo cross drilled sur mon integra, et en avant apres 1 an je pouvais voir de minuscules fissures commancent au centre du trou..partant en général vers l'intérieur et l'éxtérieur du disque.. pareil des 2 cotés!

Après 1 mois (track à toutes les semaines) sur mon Scirocco 16V j'avais des cracks sur les rotors drillés. :(

Dans le fond, ce qu'on veut éviter c'est que le disque se "vaporise" en poussière au freinage parce qu'il y a des micro cracks dedans..... ceux qui ont vu la Corvette dans Sunset bend à Sebring v'là 3-4 ans......
 
Those look like 10$ rotors, look how much rust is on them.
who are you?:dunno: Don't you know discs are made of steel?? They ALL rust, except if you paint or coat the center.

BTW, if I could find 10$ rotors, I'll buy them! For now, it's 23$ rotors on my race car and they do a great job!:bigup:
 
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