351C said:Can i put this without any troubles with a T-5 stock tranny?
My car is almost stock, with slick for drag racing.
:dunno:
Any recommendations for lower budget work on a fox? This is my main concern holding me back from getting some slicks or at least some cheaters, since I'm not sure how much I am ready to spend to strengthen the underwork (I know it is necessary, especially on foxes , this is what is holding me back )tkm said:On Stang's as soon as slicks are installed and you start to hook lots of things need upgrading
Axles, T-5, trailing arm boxes, driveshaft, u-joints, etc are weak points when slicks are installed
351C said:Well my situation is that i got cheater slick for drag racing, but all my car is stock
i'm wondering what would be the best between a 4,10 and 3,73 also.
but i've heard that a stock T-5 is WEAK with a 4,10. *banghead*
edit: got aftermarket control arm too. i'm removing the quadshock.
Welcome tires
Live 5.0L @atime said:Any recommendations for lower budget work on a fox? This is my main concern holding me back from getting some slicks or at least some cheaters, since I'm not sure how much I am ready to spend to strengthen the underwork (I know it is necessary, especially on foxes , this is what is holding me back )
anyways, thanks for any tips
67Continental said:i am putting 4.10 in mine this spring. had the diff rebuilt with 2.73 in the fall, but it's not doing it for me.
tkm said:Well if a 200mph car is what you want then 2.73 would do it for you (not to mention the HP needed for those speeds)
For acceleration from a stop then 3.55 and more is the way to go.
4.10 and higher is for 1/4 acceleration
67Continental said:not at all interested in top end just acceleration. that is why I am making the change. I am aware of how gear ratios control and contribute to top speed / rate of accel
silver7 said:Hey Tom !
Let me just say that i truely enjoy reading your replies to questions .
Your wisdom and approch for safe modification is honest and unmatched :bigup:
I certainly wish that more people read between the lines and understand that it's not just about the price or gain of a single part, but in reality the preparation
and value of the whole combination that makes the real difference between satisfaction or frustration !!
Thanks for being here man :beer:
For the record ,allthough 4.10's is a very popular and still streetable upgrade ,
i'd prolly go a little less hard-core and order for a set of 3.73's in my next project 'stang .
They are simply the best bang for the buck imo , and possibly the first mod anybody should do for a real-world improuvement of acceleration .....
tkm said:Talking in general not just at you :bigup:
Live 5.0L @atime said:yes! Thanks a lot for the tips! I am obviously agreeing with you that all of this stuff is important so as to not have worries later on, but of course, money is always an issue...
My application is not so 'hardcore' as was previously said; I do intend to take her to the track now and then, and traction IS a priority, but not if that means spending so much money making a drag monster ready traction setup for a daily driver. So a compromise is in store likely...will be doing some research and likely be asking for more wise words in the near future :bigup:
tkm said:Like I said earlier , wait until you have some money saved up and then you do all the mods.
Trust me if you don't do them you will spend your summer in the garage changing axles, trannies, and towing bills which I hate paying for
It actually works out to be more expensive when you total it up.
Not to mention the embarassment of breaking at the line or even worse breaking at the end and hitting a wall
Look I understand where your coming from I was young and ambishious too and tried cutting corners and still came to the same conclusion that building it right the first time saves you at least double the money in the long run not to mention the hassles and headaches