Repost from:
http://www.pcmtl.com/public/public.htm#bodywork
About rust, bodywork, paintjobs.
Bodywork is a trade in precision, and requires skill, a different type of skill not related to any type of motor mechanics. If you want a shop to (in the exact order): cut away rusted metal, shape and weld the repair metal, grind down the welds to flush, fibreglass filler, grate, soft filler, grate, sand 80-grit, sand 180-grit, sand 400-grit, prime, sand 400-grit, sealant, reducer wash and wipe, tape, rockerguard, valueshade coat1, valueshade coat2, base color coat1, base color coat2, base color coat3, dry, urethane clear coat1, urethane clear coat2, dry, block, wet sand 1200, wet sand 2000, polish compound, water polish, polish gloss : this results with a factory-finish job. Now if you absolutely want the lowest price in town, i have two facts to teach:
1. You will get what you pay for--as some of the steps above can be eliminated if you don't want to pay for it.
2. The amount you decide to spend, is relative to how much you love your car. If you don't care about your car, you won't mind getting a primer-less single heavy coat of enamel that will look like crap after it's painted and look even worse 3 weeks later.
And that is all.
Addenum: You can get Urethane-in-a-can at any Bodyshop Supplier (shops that sell DuPont and Ppg to bodyshops). This is a quick-fix clear coat.