Ou S'enligner dans les modifications à faire à notre DSM?!?

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PSi

Banned
Alors voici, des STAGES, qui n'ont pas été faite, par un gosseux de fond de rang, mais bel & bien, par des professionnels.

Alors voici les étapes à suivre.

STAGE 1:
Put down as much as 300hp and run mid 12s to low 13

1) Upgrade your Air Filter
Our Recommendations:
1st Generation - K&N Air Filter
2nd Generation - K&N Filtercharger Kit
*Perform the Mitsubishi Free Mods at this time!!
Removing the Boost Control Solenoid restrictor will raise boost 2-3 psi and remove the BOV dump tube
*How to remove boost control solenoid*
*How to remove the BOV dump Tube*


2) Upgrade your Catback Exhaust System
Our Recommendations: 2.5" to 3inch
Apexi N1 Catback
Tanabe Racing Spec Catback
Thermal Exhaust Catback
*This will free up your turbo and allow your car to breathe easier.


3) Boost Gauge
The factory Mitsubishi boost gauge does not read a value based on pressure, instead it "calculates" what the maf is seeing and guesstimates the boost reading as such. Because of this fault, you need a reliable boost gauge that will allow you to read Intake Manifold Pressure correctly. We carry a full line of boost gauges, from SPI, HKS, Greddy, Apex, Defi and Blitz.


4) Blow Off Valve for 2nd Generation Eclipses
The stock BOV for 2nd Generation Eclipses will not hold even moderate levels of boost created by your turbo. A cheap upgrade for this is a crushed 1g BOV. We carry a full line of Greddy, Apex, HKS, Blitz, and Tial BOV's.
*How to crush a 1g BOV*


5) Boost Controller
We love the Hallman Boost controllers, cheap and very effective. Some of the fastest DSMS in the world run this boost controller, good enough for them, good enough for you. If youd like a electronic boost controller, we carry Greddy, Apex, HKS, and Blitz


6) Fuel Pump
For DSMS aiming for mid 12s we recommend the Walbro / Holley 190 pumps For DSMS aiming for sub 12 low 11s we recommend the Walbro / Holley 255 IF you are aiming for something faster than that.. contact us for special applications.


7) Downpipe
Replacing the stock downpipe will greatly improve the power output of your car. A 3" downpipe will increase midrange and increase topend by allowing your turbo to flow. A 3inch downpipe without sufficient portwork / wastegate work will cause boost creep.
We carry a full line of downpipes from Apex, Tanabe, as well as our own line of PSI downpipes, available in stainless steel or aluminized steel.


8) Test Pipe / High flow cat
By performing this modification, your exhaust note will change as well as midrange response. Please mod responsibly as modification of your cat is illegal for public roads. These mods should only be performed for "offroad vehicles" only.
We carry a full line of Carboy, Random Technology High Flow Cats.


9) Port Work
Using a die grinder / Dremel with a carbide bit, you can port your turbo parts ( 02 housing, and exhaust manifold housing ) This will make your turbo spool up faster, relieve unwanted backpressure, and increase your top-end power.
If you dont have the correct parts to port your turbo support, you can send your parts to us for porting ( 60 dollars per section )


10) Ported 2G Exhaust Manifold
1st Generation Eclipses should upgrade to a 2nd Generation Exhaust Manifold for better flow characteristics and better turbo response


11) Clutch
The stock clutch at this point isnt very happy if you have performed the above modifications. We recommend only ACT clutches for DSMS. Choose wisely here as you will have to live with your clutch everyday
The ACT 2100's pedal pressure is similar to a stocker and will hold enough power to propel you car into the high 11s to mid 12s. The ACT 2600's pedal pressure is significantly higher, but will hold as much power as you ask it to hold! Most of our customers dont notice the 2600 pedal pressure after a few weeks.. We highly recommend this clutch


12) Turbo upgrade for Second Generation Cars
Our PSI Stage I turbo ( small 16g ) is needed for Second Generation cars to reach the Stage I performance levels. If you are aiming for faster times than Stage I then we recommend you hold off on this turbo upgrade.


Environ: 1300$-2500$ de pièces pour le Stage 1


========================================


STAGE 2:
Put down as much as 450hp!! and run a high 10 low 11 second

1) Intercooler Piping / Front Mount Intercooler
Stock DSM intercooler piping is basically flex hoses and arent friendly to high boost. If you are looking to run mid 12s to low 12s. Then upgrade your existing piping only. We carry a full line of piping kits and also offer our own. If you are looking for low 12s and faster, then we recommend purchasing an intercooler kit at this stage. We carry a full line of Apex and Greddy Front Mount kits and we also offer our line of high quality stainless steel intercooler kits for 2gs. Intercooling is extremely important for power and reliability. Stock intercoolers with a few exceptions are total crap when used for performance applications. They offer low efficiencies and high pressure drop. Our kits are properly matched cores from Spearco. The closer that your charge temperature is to the ambient temperature, the higher the HP potential will be.


2) EGT Gauge
We highly recommend this mod at this point, as you are preparing for future mods. We carry a full line of Apex, Greddy, HKS, and Blitz EGT gauges. The probe will have to be drilled and tapped into your existing manifold in order to properly regulate Exhaust Temps.


3) Upgraded Turbo
Pro Street carries almost every available turbo for your application!! From stock appearing 16gs to giant t3/t4 turbos to custom turbos for even the most jaded speed addicts!! Call us to best determine your needs! We carry a full line of Greddy, HKS, Mitsubishi and custom turbos for your needs!! Pro Street can recommend the best turbo for your application!! Street, Drag or otherwise!


4) Fuel Injector Upgrade
Depending upon the larger turbo choice you made above, larger injectors may be needed, as well as an external wastegate if needed.
550s = BIG 16g or similar
660s = 20g - small t3/t4
720s = large t3/t4 and above


5) Fuel Management
We recommend installing a Super AFC at this stage. This complex computer will allow you to take full advantage of your upgraded turbo and fuel mods by allowing you adjust fuel trims to your liking. You will need a datalogger of some sort to properly tune your car. If you are someone who wants the most in performance and reliability we also offer prepackaged Haltech computers with starter maps to allow you to plug in and run almost immediately. Yes we run Haltech on the street, yes they are reliable, yes our customers love them. We are Northern Californias only real proven DSM tuners and can provide you with a full range of services and products for your goals.


6) Cams
We carry a full line of Crower, HKS and Web Cams. We commonly recommend 264/272 combo for street / drag cars. Its very important to NOT overcam your car for your driving purposes. Overcamming will result in a poor low end, poor response, poor fuel economy car. Sure it may sound manly to tell your friends you have the biggest cams around, but having 2k of usable power isnt very manly. Higher duration and lift cams are the main modification for increasing power. The more duration and valve overlap a cam has generally, the worse the low end torque, fuel economy and idle will be. Of course, top end power should be better. With too much cam, the powerband becomes so short that the car is just no fun at all to drive in traffic. Most street engines spend the majority of their time in the 2000-4500 rpm range. Remember.. dont over-cam.


7) Weight Savings
Remove the tar-like sound deadener on the floor of the interior and on the firewall Get rid of the spare tire, jack, tools, rear hatch carpet, metal brackets in the rear hatch, and the heat shields in the driveshaft tunnel.
Dont go overboard here if you wish to keep streetability around. Remember.. DSMS dont need huge amounts of weight savings to perform well on the street


AMuSÉ Vous.
Si ya des intéressés, je peux poster le Stage 3 également.
650hp OVER. ;)


---Idée d'Endroit pour acheter les Stages.
http://www.dsmparts.com/performance_packages_1G.htm



Chow!
 
Suspension Modification.
==================

Stage 1 pour La Rue... (STREET USE)

High Performance Tires
The single, most effective upgrade you can do.

Swaybars
Larger swaybars will help reduce roll without decreasing ride quality in the turns.

Strut bars
Strut bars will help reduce body flex and will tighten up the car's chassis.

Springs
Stiffen up the supsension and lower the center of gravity with performance springs.

Shocks
Further tune and stiffen the suspension with adjustable high performance shocks.

Rotor upgrade
All 90-92 DSMs have smaller brake rotors and calipers than the 93+ AWD cars. Swapping out your smaller rotors and calipers for these larger units is a good idea - you can even upgrade to aftermarket rotors at the same time.

Brake pads
Shorten your stopping distance with some higher friction pads.

===========================================
OU:

STAGE 2 Pour La Track....

High Performance Tires
The single, most effective upgrade you can do.

Swaybars
Larger swaybars will help reduce roll without decreasing ride quality in the turns.

Strut bars
Strut bars will help reduce body flex and will tighten up the car's chassis.

Coil-over suspension
Adjust your ride height and have total tuning control over your suspension travel.

Polyurethane bushings
Replaces all those flexible rubber bushings throughout the suspension.

Big brake upgrade
Replace your brake rotors and calipers with larger, high performance units made to handle rough track conditions.

Steel Braided lines
A great replacement for the rubber hoses supplied by the factory. Improves pedal feel.

Hi-temp Brake fluid
Reduce the chance of boiling your brake fluid on harsh track days.

Brake pads
Shorten your stopping distance with some higher friction pads.


Et Voila... Amusez vous encore!!!!
 
Ya beaucoup de modifications que je n'est pas pris en note, en passant.

Comme enlever la petite grille en forme d'honeycomb, dans le MAF. Enlever les Balancer Shaft.. e.t.c..

Je vais en poster des plus précise bientôt.

;)
 
Pour le Stage 3... c'est pas bien bien compliquer.

Transmission RACE
Forgés l'interne du moteur Pistons 8.5:1 JE, Rods, Crank Polis.

Et faire, beaucoup et beaucoup et beaucoup de Tuning sur Dyno, pour avoir le meilleur Setup possible
Possiblement avec une meilleur Ecu, Exemple Motec. AEM EMS Standalone... e.t.c..

Mais je peux poster une liste comme le Stage 1 et 2. si ya vraiment des intéressés, à la voir ;)
 
Originally posted by PSi
Ya beaucoup de modifications que je n'est pas pris en note, en passant.

Comme enlever la petite grille en forme d'honeycomb, dans le MAF. Enlever les Balancer Shaft.. e.t.c..

Je vais en poster des plus précise bientôt.

;)

Enlever le honeycomb n'est plus vraiment utilisé comme mod... ben pas au quebec entk.

Le best, cest que tu changes ton maf sensor de talon 1990-1994 pour un maf de 1995-1999, puis tu apportes la correction nécéssaire a ton ecu avec un SAFC ou tout autre system te permettant des correction de ce genre.

cest que le maf de 1g perd la carte apres un certain volume d'aire entrant. Ce qui te donne des fuel cuts... le ecu voit trop d'air et coupe le gaz...
C'est pas le fun en deuxieme a 6500 rpm... ca fesse!

En enlevant le honeycomb on laisse passé plus dair pour le nombre de hertz calculer par l'ordinateur... ca fait runner le char plus pauvre un peu.

Le maf de 2g 1995-1999 permet beaucoup plus d'air pour le nombre de hertz... il faut donc le corriger en enrichissant le mélange.
 
Originally posted by EauBenite
peut etre bien ::D
si tu me vois courser a napi un de ces quatres, vien me voir, je te ferai une run, mes temps son pas super mais le feeling est vraiment different d'une n/a.
 
ColtMax, le MAF 1G est tout de même potable à la limite : tu le hack en enlevant tout le trou du lower honeycomb et il y a une autre mods dessus pour empecher ces fuel cut! :p

En passant PSi... je suis curieux de connaitre ton set-up. Peux-tu m'en donner un apperçu? Au pire par private si tu ne veux pas le rendre public.
 
Originally posted by Franky
ColtMax, le MAF 1G est tout de même potable à la limite : tu le hack en enlevant tout le trou du lower honeycomb et il y a une autre mods dessus pour empecher ces fuel cut! :p

En passant PSi... je suis curieux de connaitre ton set-up. Peux-tu m'en donner un apperçu? Au pire par private si tu ne veux pas le rendre public.
Ouin, faudrais bien que j'essaye ca... je commence a avoir des fuel cut a 19psi sur ma colt.

en attendant de me gosser du piping pour le maf2g
 
Coltmax... c sur que le MAF 2G est 100 fois meilleur, mais en attendant, tu peux aller voir sur les vfaq, c'est la que j'ai trouvé mon info.
 
oui je sais comment faire la mod... cest juste que je suis lache un peu. apres avoir passé pres de deux mois a travailler sur mon char les soirs et les fds.. je commence a avoir mon quota de mechanic pour un bout! ;)
 
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