sorte d'huile sr20det
- Thread starter civicvtec
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WorkInProgressSI
New member
avec un moteur turbo que tu track il y a deux lois: mettre une huile plus lourde et synthetique . 5W40 jusqua 15w50 tes bon.
Alex@VAGMotorsport
Shop Representative
redline 10w40 ou 15w50 popur moteur, mt90 avec lightwheight ou heavywheight et pour les diff, la 90pa de motul est excellente. j'ai tout sa en stock pour les sr20det.
Bannonjr
Shop Representative
I would recommend either an Amsoil 5w-40 or a max, Amsoil 10w-40 in that engine. I wouldn't run a heavy weight like a 15w-50. Especially with a stock or stock-ish engine.
Both the 5, and 10w-40 will work well with your turbo application and will give you the protection you need throughout temperature ranges.
Also, have an eye, some of these engines have a problem with the pickup tube, causing pressure problems. Apparently it's the strainer that is the problem. My friends at Honda R. have told me they upgraded the strainer for the S14 models and later so this applies to only the earlier models.
If I had to choose one, on the track I would go with the 10w-40, let it warm up and go...if you're rarely on the track, and more of a street/occasional strip application, the 5w-40 will work great.
This combined with an Amsoil EAO filter will do exactly what you want.
If you want some more info, feel free to contact...
Cheers!
Both the 5, and 10w-40 will work well with your turbo application and will give you the protection you need throughout temperature ranges.
Also, have an eye, some of these engines have a problem with the pickup tube, causing pressure problems. Apparently it's the strainer that is the problem. My friends at Honda R. have told me they upgraded the strainer for the S14 models and later so this applies to only the earlier models.
If I had to choose one, on the track I would go with the 10w-40, let it warm up and go...if you're rarely on the track, and more of a street/occasional strip application, the 5w-40 will work great.
This combined with an Amsoil EAO filter will do exactly what you want.
If you want some more info, feel free to contact...
Cheers!
DrPat(acsp)
Legacy Member
5w40 ou 10w40
oubli ca de la 15w50 cest trop epais pour un moteur stock, cest pour les moteurs avec plus de clairances.
oubli ca de la 15w50 cest trop epais pour un moteur stock, cest pour les moteurs avec plus de clairances.
moi jai un filtre fram avec de la castrol 10-40... étais en spécial au cacantire a 15$ avec le filtre. Nachete pas un filtre nissan oem... Jai eu une mauvaise expérience... Il a exploser. Pour lhuile de diff met nimporte quoi de moins cher tant qui est écrit engrenage... moi jai le lhuile extreme patante du cacan tire... cest 8$ la bouteille si je me trompe pas ou peut etre 6$. Si ta un viscous tu va changer lhuile pour rien... Moi je lai faites parce que elle avait été jamais changer et lauto avait au dessus de 100 000 kilo. Si ta un lsd aftermarket donc a clutch du genre un kaaz met de lhuile pour différentiel a clutch et change la souvent. 2 session de lapping ou drift et tu change. Ne met pas dhuile synthétique et ne joue pas au chimiste avec des additif de marde. Vas y pour le plus logique et le moins cher. Comme lhuile moteur de la 10-40 minéral va faire la job meme si est pas synthétique. faut juste ta change quand elle est du... 4-5 mille kilo...
Bannonjr
Shop Representative
I'll completely disagree with the post above me.
Fram's are some of the market's worst filters.
There is no reason not to put a synthetic oil in either the engine, diff, or tranny. It will help, it will protect better, and it will outperform any conventional oil.
Do not simply put the cheapest oil available.
---
Here's a shot of a Fram filter inside.
Fram's are some of the market's worst filters.
There is no reason not to put a synthetic oil in either the engine, diff, or tranny. It will help, it will protect better, and it will outperform any conventional oil.
Do not simply put the cheapest oil available.
---
Here's a shot of a Fram filter inside.
WorkInProgressSI
New member
Again..... the search fonction doesn't work so I cant really pull out my reply on a oil thread in the drift section but here is a resume:
The choice of the weight of the oil depends of at what temperature the oil is used at and its ability to hold its viscosity. in 10w30 the 30 states the viscosity at x temperature and the 10 w is how low it can go and still have a viscosity, think of it as a usuable band. So the only difference between a 5w30 and a 10w30 is the ability to hold his viscosity to lower temps then the 10w.
Example
I don have the real numbers at the moment) 10w30 has the weight of 30x from -30 to 100celsius, so under 30 its heavier, and over 100 its lighter. Now I track my car and I know that my oil is getting the shit beated out of him.
Since I know my oil is going to pass the 100 celsius mark, which demandes a heavier oil to have the same amount of viscosity as if I was driving daily on 10w30 and I know that the 15w protects to around which summer never gets really lower then 14 celsius . 5w would becme overkill for summer, since it would probably protect till -40. The logic choice would be from 5w to 40 to 15w50 depending how much you beat the car.
Think about it. Japanese drifters run really heavy oil and most of the time they last longer then american tuned motors which run 10w30.
oh and a used motor has always more free tolerances. So heavier is better. oh and if you daily it...well yes the heavier oil are overkill, but not dangerous for your engine. they will be less efficient at low temperatures.
And ranger whats wrong with the filter?
p.s. race engine or not, if its tracked go heavier. The important thing is not what is used, but how its used.
The choice of the weight of the oil depends of at what temperature the oil is used at and its ability to hold its viscosity. in 10w30 the 30 states the viscosity at x temperature and the 10 w is how low it can go and still have a viscosity, think of it as a usuable band. So the only difference between a 5w30 and a 10w30 is the ability to hold his viscosity to lower temps then the 10w.
Example
I don have the real numbers at the moment) 10w30 has the weight of 30x from -30 to 100celsius, so under 30 its heavier, and over 100 its lighter. Now I track my car and I know that my oil is getting the shit beated out of him. Since I know my oil is going to pass the 100 celsius mark, which demandes a heavier oil to have the same amount of viscosity as if I was driving daily on 10w30 and I know that the 15w protects to around which summer never gets really lower then 14 celsius . 5w would becme overkill for summer, since it would probably protect till -40. The logic choice would be from 5w to 40 to 15w50 depending how much you beat the car.
Think about it. Japanese drifters run really heavy oil and most of the time they last longer then american tuned motors which run 10w30.
oh and a used motor has always more free tolerances. So heavier is better. oh and if you daily it...well yes the heavier oil are overkill, but not dangerous for your engine. they will be less efficient at low temperatures.
And ranger whats wrong with the filter?
p.s. race engine or not, if its tracked go heavier. The important thing is not what is used, but how its used.
Bon voila pour le filtre un fram est ordinaire... J'avais lu sur des post que c'étais ordinaire... Mais quand meme on parle d'un sr20det surment proche d'être stock... Un filtre chez carquest ou napa son meilleur. Pour l'huile synthétique... Coté battage intensif sa track je trouve sa correct. Daily et un fois de temps en temps sur la piste... De la minéral va faire emplement la job si elle est changer régulièrement et le filtre aussi. Je ne roulerai pas de la minéral 10-30 pars exemple... Je trouve sa trop liquide et meme le shop manuel du sr20det en parlais que si la température ambiente étais trop chaude de mettre de la 10-40 a meme de la 20-50. C'est turbo et tout le monde le sais que sa chauffe plus qu'un n/a. Pour l'huile du diff de la synthétique pour un viscous aka visqueux ne sert absolument a rien et a clutch ce n'est pas conseiller et meme le compagnie l'écrivent sur leur papier. Pour la tranny c'est correct et meme tres bien parce que normalement tu change sa au 100 mille kilo... Si ton auto est daily et battre de temps en temps de la castrol 10-40 va faire la job. Et si t'aime mieux pis dépenser pour rien achete toi de la royal purple
Alex@VAGMotorsport
Shop Representative
Again..... the search fonction doesn't work so I cant really pull out my reply on a oil thread in the drift section but here is a resume:
The choice of the weight of the oil depends of at what temperature the oil is used at and its ability to hold its viscosity. in 10w30 the 30 states the viscosity at x temperature and the 10 w is how low it can go and still have a viscosity, think of it as a usuable band. So the only difference between a 5w30 and a 10w30 is the ability to hold his viscosity to lower temps then the 10w.
Example
Since I know my oil is going to pass the 100 celsius mark, which demandes a heavier oil to have the same amount of viscosity as if I was driving daily on 10w30 and I know that the 15w protects to around which summer never gets really lower then 14 celsius . 5w would becme overkill for summer, since it would probably protect till -40. The logic choice would be from 5w to 40 to 15w50 depending how much you beat the car.
Think about it. Japanese drifters run really heavy oil and most of the time they last longer then american tuned motors which run 10w30.
oh and a used motor has always more free tolerances. So heavier is better. oh and if you daily it...well yes the heavier oil are overkill, but not dangerous for your engine. they will be less efficient at low temperatures.
And ranger whats wrong with the filter?
p.s. race engine or not, if its tracked go heavier. The important thing is not what is used, but how its used.
i have to totally agree on this post, and the fram filter is extra cheap, it's just like cardboard!
Wix filter is cheap and they are one of the best. Don't tell me that 8$ for 5000km is a lot!
Bannonjr
Shop Representative
Everything is wrong with the filter...you know what you're talking about it seems when it comes to oil, so I'm surprised you ask this.
The only good thing about that filter is the rubber seal-ring. It's a cheap cardboard/paper filter, with weak end caps...and the drain back valve does not fit tight. It does have a metal by-pass spring and plate but it's small and doesn't fit as snug as it should.
I've stopped tapping in some cases just by changing off a fram filter and putting on an EAO filter.
It also amazes me that people will not spend money on a proper filter. It's important, we spend thousands on our cars but won't spring 20 bucks for a filter.
Having a full flow filter that actually cleans for more than a 1000km's is simply...worth it.
Here's what a proper filter looks like...
WorkInProgressSI
New member
I understand, but the first pictures just lacks details.
Back on topic. I just ran a total of 1200km in cold temp 500 km at 120 km/h 250 km tracking so high reving and high loads and 500 km/h at 140km/h. All that with 15w50 in cold temp= 0 Deg
And I had only one cold start(turbo wine) it was sunday morning after having the car sit for 2 weeks and more. Other then that at -2 it started very well.
So you guys dont be scared to run heavy oil!. Especialy during summer!
WorkInProgressSI
New member
Critical what? At what temperature the motor runs? What engine? Here we are talking about a sr20det. A overheating engine that runs always too hot. And works with oil as a hydraulic fluid. How many km's. Whats the motors milage? Whats the past of the motor?.
Too many questions no answers with your info.
I was running between 10 psi for normal power and 15 for my push to pass. so my turbo what really running hot. And I data logged my car . I was runing between 180F and 186F, When during summer I run at 205F.
If you want we can test my oil see how it survived.
Srry this is really a / THREAD.... Finaly looked in the FSM.
Too many questions no answers with your info.
I was running between 10 psi for normal power and 15 for my push to pass. so my turbo what really running hot. And I data logged my car . I was runing between 180F and 186F, When during summer I run at 205F.
If you want we can test my oil see how it survived.
Srry this is really a / THREAD.... Finaly looked in the FSM.
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