ARP Head Studs

Status
Not open for further replies.
12 Inch Club

12 Inch Club

Legacy Member
I received a copy of the RMR liqidation sale. I noticed that they are selling ARP head studs for a 16V. What is the main difference between these and and OEM? I want to change my head gasket this winter; that's why I'm asking. Is it worth the extra money?

thanks
 
one of they're main advantages of being studs is
that they don't strech like tha factory 16v bolts. once you
take out a set of OE 16v bolts, you have to replace them.
the arp don't stretch. i think that the only advantage that you
would gain, is if you we're running some sort of forced induction for extra strength. i bought a set for my car and i'll be throwing them on this winter. gonna try them out.
 
That's true the oem bolt generaly are good for 1 time.
These arp head studs are good for life and i use them my self for a full race engine that has 14:1 compression and they never let me down.

The arp studs have 200000 psi tensile strength. These studs have at lease 40 % more tuffenes than a stock bolt

I sell arp

You can contact me for real tech support

Ben
www.camotuning.com
 
I personnaly can tell you that head stud on a VW could be asking for problems, we've been selling the stuff for 3 years and swear by it....but on certain application like the 16 V it could be hard (impossible) to remove the head because of thousands of a inch sway in the block....once tighten...the head has to be jerk off....head bolts for the 16V could be a better choice....shop around for your parts...;)
 
I aggree with Steph. Bolts would probably be easier to work with than studs later on down the road. Like everyone has said, ARP is good cause theyre reusable(dont stretch) and cause theyre said to hold the block and head together under very high boost/compression situations. Personally, unless you plan on running yer car under either one of those situations, I dont really feel theres a need for em, but Im no pro.(ok tech guys, Im ready for my flaming!) lol:D
 
With experience i can tell you that if you buy a jobber bolts you can run in to problems. So you better go with oem part , and if down the road you want to take out your head, than your fu$c#...... and another expenses.

Personnaly you have to be retarded if you have problem installing the head with some studs.

Your talking with a engine builder here not a p-flow installer.

Ben
13.5 1/4 miles 2.0litre all motor

www.camotuning.com
 
yeah I shoulda said OEM, but then again, if you buy from Canadian Tire you deserve anything you get! I have no experience with head studs, I was just aggreeing with what seemed obvious to me. I remember taking my crankshaft main caps off, which are held on by studs/nuts, and they were a little annoying to remove.

P.S. Hows the Rabbit comming?
 
This is a motor that i prepared 4 years a go for ice racing.
I'll tell you my secret...............

Head ported on flowwbench 25% more efficiencies
lite hydraulic lifters
5 angle job on intake valves radius for exhaust
combustion chamber cc and polished and rewelded for better flow
Kent cams 296 degree of duration .445 of lift
titanium retainer's and techtonics valve springs
Cam's redialed with cam sprocket for maximum hp
main cam sprocket home made with EDM CNC machine work
ARP head studs

Tall block 1993 for longer rod's and better rod ratio(better for piston speed)
knife edge crank 92.5mm
J.E pistons 14:1 compression
J.E rings
Titanium CARILLO rod's
all arp studs
every part is balanced
oil pan baffle for oil dragging
heavy duty oil pump
Custom oil cooling system

Custom flywheel made in 4340 chromoly
with race disk
6 speed transmission with close ratio (not 4k)

45DCOE Weber caburator's with TWM intake system
ITG air filter and air horns
With a lot more ...................

If you want to see this it will be on my web site soon..
www.camotuning.com
ben rally rabbit.jpg
 
Thanks Ben revealing some of your secrets. Be sure that I'm awaiting pics of it. I had similar setup (Weber 2.0 16v) in a '92 GTI. I can't forget the sound that this car made.
 
Effectivelly you have to be gay to have problems installing a head with ARP studs....removing the head after can become a problem . But then again as an engine builder you already knew that....;)
 
I had my ARP studs for 4 years, on my Talon. Even when the engine was bone stock, those studs were my only engine mod. Ran too much boost with them, did all kind of crazy things. Reused them many times. Still like new.

As for the VW content (hehe) I rode in one of Ben's lesser car, Bert's old Rabbit that wasn't making the kind of power Ben's car is. Well, short of a V-8, I never ever felt a 4 cylinder with such sudden and strong torque! We did a little race against Ben's friend (a BMW 535) and we were slightly ahead, spinning 1st, 2nd and 3RD GEAR!

These car were not built for straight line acceleration, but since it's the only thing I can do (what, you can turn a steering?!?) it's surprising how strong they are. Not to mention that a rallye or ice racing lasts for longer than a quarter mile. Soooo, those engines have to stay together, huh?

BTW, I want a ride in the Golf!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top