Its got a value of arround 12K with those miles in EXCELENT condition From a DEALER, with an extended warrenty on the block.
Ill give people a hint when buying a used car, CHECK THE BLUE BOOK VALUE FIRST THING!
Obviously the guy is looking for the ballance of his debt on the car (Or a little more as it aprears), but it doesnt work that way.
Privot party, arround 10k, but the boost controler drops the value to arround 8k if your lucky, the car is really only worth 6k no more. Go look at the Kelly Blue Book yourself, AND even better go look what people are getting them for with engines that have never had boost controlers Vs the ones that have.
9 out of 10 MSP's with boost controlers have been overboosted for the strenth of the stock Rods, (If you know ANYTHING about the MSP you know the stock rods are trash)
The Only way to boost past 7 PSI safely is with a unichip or engine management on top of the boost controler, all this guy has is a boost controler.
Ill bet a million bucks hes boosted to 9PSI at least a few times.
The problem is there is NO WAY to know, he could have boosted to 16PSI a few times for all we know, even when inspecting the car you cant tell (Unless you go so far as to pull out the F-ing Rods, but c'mon thats rediculous. Would you take a $6000(Cost of putting in a new block) Chance on somebody's word, somebody you dont know?
It cost MONEY to replace the motor, and there have been ohh tooo many blown MSP' blocks, so many there is a F-ing "Zoom Zoom Boom" club!
You can bust a rod bearing in the FS DE simply by conering hard (Even N/A Blocks have had this happen) it's suseptible to oil starvation in hard cornering, and this has been a refused repair to some, Dealers claiming if your cornering hard enough to cause oil starvation that is outside "Normal Use" and considered abusing the car, and you need to pay for it yourself.
If you come in with a Poped block and a boost controler (Or sighns one was there) They will laugh at the warrenty claim, and with good right.
Imagine buying this car and poping the block in a few months and getting the finger from the dealer because of the boost controler. You dont even need to keep overboosting for there to be an issue, dammaged rods can go when they want to.
If your buying a motor with the chance the block will need replacing soon after purchase its only really worth the value after the cost of a new motor. Since its valued at 12K in pristine condition (From a Dealer) and it cost arround 6K to replace the motor, your looking at a car with a value of 6k.
On top of all this there is the "Clunk" Ill bet you got it replaced so as not to have to explaining to test drivers that they have to Buy an aftermarket bracket to actually solve the issuue as the dealer will only keep replacing the bushings as long as your under warenty (3 years, I think your out side of that) and the replacements they use brake down like the original leaving the "Clunk" to piss of drivers everywhere. Those bushings you already had replaced, that will need to be replaced again.
I bet the dealer already offered you 8K or less for it.
It sounds rough, but Im being honest and trying to help you. You need to be realistic. 18k for this car is anything but. Ive seen MSP's, with Forged motors for 15K.
I would go looking for a trade in for 9k MAYBE 10k, you might be able to find a place that will take it.
Take out your aftermarket parts and sell them individually for some extra cash.
