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Discussion: The 2JZ information thread (swap bible)

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    The 2JZ information thread (swap bible)

    So many of the same questions, all the answers in one place.



    The 2jz in brief

    The 2JZ is a 3.0 inline 6 engine produced by Toyota motor company starting in 1991. Based roughly on the build of the 1JZ this model has 4 variants. The 2JZGE which is the non turbo model, the 2JZGTE twin turbo (Japanese spec) the 2JZGTE USDM spec twin turbo (see below for differences) And the 2JZGTE VVTI motor twin turbo.


    The Chassis codes and models the engine was available in.



    2JZGTE

    Japan:

    Toyota Supra - JZA80 (2jzgte) - Ceramic
    Toyota Aristo - JZS147 / V300 JZS161 Aristo (2jzgte) - Ceramic

    North America:


    Toyota Supra JZA80 (2jzgte) stainless steel



    2JZGE Naturally Aspirated with no additional oil squirters

    Toyota Altezza / Lexus IS 300 (J-SPEC) / USDM - AS300
    Toyota Aristo / Lexus GS 300 (J-SPEC) / USDM (front sump) ZS1xx
    Toyota Crown/Toyota Crown Majesta (J-SPEC) - S130
    Toyota Mark II (J-SPEC) (Front sump) - JZX81-A
    Toyota Chaser (J-SPEC) (front sump) - JZX81
    Toyota Cresta (J-SPEC) (front sump) - JZX81
    Toyota Progres (luxury sedan) (J-SPEC) - NC300
    Toyota Soarer / Lexus SC 300 (J-SPEC) /USDM (mid sump) - JZZ31
    Toyota Supra MK IV (J-SPEC) / USDM (mid sump) - JZA80



    Power Output and motor differences

    2JZGE: 220 hp @ 5800 rpm / 220 ft.lbs @ 4800 rpm




    Differences from JDM to USDM



    - The Camshafts are different
    - The USDM has larger injectors (550 cc/min low impedance, requires resistor pack for USDM model, 440 cc/min high impedance for JDM models )
    - The USDM 2JZ has a EGR where as the JDM one does not. (JDM head can be drilled out and is already tapped for bolts)
    - The USDM 2JZ runs off afm/maf + map, where as the JDM one is map based, no afm
    - The turbos are different, J-spec got ceramic and USDM spec got stainless steel.


    Installation


    You can put any engine in any car. You need to know how to weld so the 2JZ swap is not for the faint of heart, or the poor.

    The 2jz swap is often difficult and very expensive. If you choose to put one in a RWD toyota you will have the least amount of trouble but 90% of the work you have to do is custom. The research I used for the most part is based on swapping a 2JZGTE into an MA61 (82-86) Supra and closely applies to those swapping a 2J into a USDM MarkIII (MA70) which ran a 7MGTE. In this case, even a lot of the reservoirs, hoses and piping can be purchased from sites like Driftmotion.com to swap either one of the Japanese imported JZ motors into the MA70 Chassis. The parts were made to fit this motor into the chassis in most cases if you pick up a full JDM MarkIII (JZA70) clip from a JDM shop if you prefer the 1jz. Almost all the same procedures and suggestions can be used swapping these motors into any other rear wheel drive chassis.

    In the case of the MA** chasiss You can use the automatic transmission cross member in most cases to fit the tail-end of the motor/transmission assembly, but it depends on the specific chassis design of the car.

    When choosing your engine you also have to consider the position of the oil sump, depending on the chassis it came from it could be a front sump oil pan, mid sump or a rear sump, verify your sub-frame before buying your engine. For example, in my Supra I would need a front sump motor. You can convert back or forth the sump location, but you have to source the parts, the oil pick up, the pan and you might even have to re-route your oil return lines, a hassle when you could just pick up the one you need right away.

    - You need the motor and wiring harness(2000$)
    - Transmission (r154 $500-1000)
    - Clutch kit (1000$+ depending on RWHP goal)
    - Bellhousing (JZ to R154 282$ new from toyota)
    - Custom engine mounts (make yourself (cheap)or have them made 200-300$)
    -Transmission cross member (depends on what car your putting it in, might have to be custom) May use an automatic member depending on car)
    - Custom wiring harness (you can do it yourself with about 30 hours of splicing or pay to have it done)
    - Intercooler and piping (200$+150$+welding and fitting $$)
    - Custom drive-shaft (if its an old toyota, beef up the 2 piece or get a custom 1 piece ~300$)
    - Duel core radiator and electric fan kit, most likely a custom shroud too (~300$)

    Decide to keep the twins or go single, either way you have to decide how your going to make and route your exhaust. DIY for less than 300$ in stainless steel.

    ----------------------------------------
    If you plan to mod the engine, stay away from VVTI, its hard to tune because of the variance of the timing. A VVTI motor absolutely needs a standalone management system, and you wont be able to run more than 500 wheel without dumping a lot more cash into the management.

    VVTI= Variable Valve Timing with intelligence

    The OBD1 motor and the OBDII VVTI are both GTE, both the same engine but the latter has variable valve timing which is a pain to tune correctly. you want the OBD1 motor for a high horsepower straightforward / budget swap.

    Difference between J-Spec and USDM

    USA use better turbos, they make more power stock (stainless steel for USA compared to ceramic Japan). (gentelmans agreement on Japan stuck less powerful turbos on the J-spec engine to not surpass 280 hp) USA should be pushing 330 hp with 550cc injectors instead of the japan 440 cc as well.

    Both engines are equally as good for single turbo if they are GTE motors. The GTE models have extra oil squirters to cool the pistons compared to the non turbo 2jzge which did not have them.

    Boosting and modification

    The JDM spec stock twin turbos are ceramic turbos, means that turbine wheels are made of ceramic where the USDM impeller wheels are made of stainless steel. The advantage of the stainless steel turbine wheel is that it can hold more boost, safely. In rare cases people have over-boosted ceramic turbos resulting in the impeller wheel detaching from the input shaft.



    Fuel Injector chart

    http://users.erols.com/srweiss/table...m#TOYOTA_LEXUS

    Transmissions

    R154 5-speed

    A good condition r154 can hold the stock power of a 2jzgte. If you plan to put down more than 400 wheel or you really like banging gears you should consider rebuilding that transmission with merlin crawler pieces.

    A fully built merlin crawler R154 should hold 800 hp all day.

    ------

    Word of advice. A lot of people use "SPEC" clutches for their swaps, and frankly, these are garbage clutches. They overrate their products badly. A 700 hp rated clutch slips at 400 WHP, and only 400 because the clutch was slipping on the dyno. So for your own good, stay away from this company. If your looking for a good clutch for one of these swaps, send me a PM I can hook you up with a contact.

    A note for choosing a clutch: Recently I have seen a lot of people having crank-walked their 2j's. I met a guy at the Supra meet that crank walked his 600whp 2J personally. So all this to say, when choosing a clutch be away of the danger of getting something extra grippy, what happens is that under heavy load on high horsepower applications where the clutch is too sticky it forces the crank shaft so hard it walks the bearings. Be aware of the bottom end condition of the motor you are buying if you are planning high horsepower without a rebuild... When the crank shaft comes off alignment it essentially destroys everything, a full bottom end rebuild being needed afterward, be warned!

    Example of this from a DSM.




    Some notes from StraightSix

    Citation Envoyé par StraightSix Voir le message
    A word about crankwalk:

    It isn't so much the grippyness of the clutch that kills the thrust bearings or the power the motor is making, is the increased clamp loads on some pressure plates such as ACT and RPS that are used to get more friction and thus hold more power. With the factory clutch start switch, you must depress the clutch to start the car; when the motor is not running there is no oil between the thrust bearings and block/crankshaft, so it's essentially metal on metal which is not how the bearing is supposed to operate. At factory clamp loads this is not a huge issue unless you own a DSM, but increasing the clamp loads with a stiffer pressure plate puts more stress on the thrust bearing every time you start the car with the clutch pressed. The wear on the thrust bearing is also not the biggest issue, but the design of it where it will fall into the rotating assembly if it wears too much and do lots of bad things.

    2 Solutions:0
    - Disable clutch start switch (illegal on cars after 1990 or something like that even though most nissans in the 90s didn't have them). I've done this and I see no signs of crankwalk on my heavy pressure plated-2jz

    -Get new thrust bearings and pull small tack welds to hold them to the block, so they can never fall down into the rotating assembly. This is a bit overkill IMO but if you have access to them, its a bit of added security for relatively cheap. Even just changing the thrust bearings periodically is sufficient I'd think, if you insist on leaving the clutch-start enabled


    **
    The clutch start doesn't necessarily have anything to do with lubrication, its the fact that without the engine running, there is no lubrication and you're applying direct thrust from the pressure plate to an otherwise un lubricated bearing. Pretty much the only time the crankshaft sees any signifant amount of thrust is during clutching, the power strokes are all acting radially aswell any tension from the drive belts and torsional resistance from the clutch/tranny/tires.

    There are plenty of reasons why aside from price I went with an automatic aristo 2jz




    ---------------------------

    Hardcore guys will convert their "push" throwout system to a hydraulic "pull" system to avoid bending clutch forks and having smoother clutch operation under heavy load.








    Getrag 6-speed

    Expect to pay about 5000$ for one of these. A very strong and performant transmission, BUT

    Next to impossible to install without welding and sheetmetal work on almost any car except what it was intended to be used in. Its about 4-6 inches longer than the r154, wider and much heavier. To give you an idea, to fit an r154 in an MA61 you have to smash the transmission tunnel with a hammer. To fit to getrag you have to cut the tunnel out and make your own.

    Not worth it IMO unless your looking for retarded RWHP



    Getrag 6 speed / R154





    Differential

    I'll use the 7.5" as an example because it is a popular pumpkin in these cars.

    The best modification is the Detroit tru trac differential swap rebuilt with new toyota bearings and crush washers/rings. There are also other options but less information on the products.

    http://www.eaton.com/EatonCom/Produc...trac/index.htm

    People have also used IS300 LSD units in the 7.5s but I dont have any more information than that on the subject.





    A note from MrTechNic


    Citation Envoyé par MrTechNIC Voir le message
    I have been doing some digging on 7.5 diffs lately and found this so far:


    For the MKII:
    - KAAZ makes a lsd, you can find it on some web stores for 1100$ or close to that.
    - Weir Performance (http://www.weirperformance.com/) offers a very interesting rebuild kit that increases surface friction for about 200$
    - Toyota sells the TRD lsd unit (www.vancouvertoyota.com) for 675$ I will have some feedback on this soon as we are putting one in my friends 2JZ mkII.
    - If you want to lock your diff, you can use a special unit that replaces the center cage in the lsd. (I'll have pics later) That parctice is widely used by the 4X4 guys and since some of the toyota pick-up trucks use 7.5 diffs, they fit in ours. That mod is what I presently have on my car and it works very well! It's not a full lock, it locks when you put some load on the diff. CP Performance can do this mod for you.

    ring and pinions:
    you can get just about any ratio from Weir Performance 3.42, 3.58, 3.73, 4.10, 4.30, 4.56, 4.88, 5.29, 5.71 in either new or used condition.
    Also 3.90 r&p can be had from the cessida diff.

    best ratio for a JZ all depends on the intent, for street use the 3.73 will give you great gaz/milage but slow take-offs. The 4.10 or 4.30 will be better for race oriented peeps. The 3.90 is a good choice for a full street user that will occasionally put the car on the track.



    7.5" locker ~300 USD




    Stroker and high horsepower modifications


    A common big HP option for the 2JZGTE is what they call a Stroker Kit. Which in essence is an entirely new bottom end rebuilt with impossibly strong parts raising the displacement to 3.4 L.

    The companies that make these kits that people are the most familiar with are HKS and Titan who sell either kits or pre-assembled long blocks to do the modifications.

    http://www.titanmotorsports.com/enco.html

    http://www.titanmotorsports.com/builenparpac.html

    http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=2409

    A lot of people do their own custom single turbo swaps, but some companies do make kits, which can be very pricey.

    http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=687
    http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=695


    Twin turbo kits are also available from HKS

    Hks 3,4l strokerkit.
    Hks gt2835 twinturbokit

    Dernière modification par mk2-2jz ; 30/01/2011 à 21h24.


  2. #2
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    I'd love a sticky it would save 5 threads a day worth of explanations

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    oooooo wooooooow , that the best explanation . really goood thread . and gonna help alot for future .

    Tnks Alot mk2-1jz . +rep .

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    Most of the links to the wiring tutorials have gone dead on most of the supra sites, so I'll post up what I find. Your going to need the diagrams from the VG Chassis to splice into the 2jz harness as well.






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    edit, added to first post
    Dernière modification par mk2-2jz ; 22/03/2010 à 17h30.

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    Amen

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    this is a work in progress so bear with me.

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    12000 RPM

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    Awesome thread, it deserves +rep for sure!

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    sickkk!!! tnks alot mk2-1jz for diagrams

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    dude your too good for this lol nice job definetaly helping peeps out there and how do you get reputation points lol im only at 10 lol
    "The mean streets of MTL are effin' up my car"

    TLS Crew Member

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    i want a usdm mk4 turbo supra
    Citation Envoyé par Alain95i4 Voir le message
    ma mere avait pas mal les memes shapes qu'Ariel Rebel dans les annees 50 et 60
    une chance mon pere etait un maudit pedo et l'a marie sinon je serais jamais venu au monde
    2004 Honda S2000 - Summer toy (2016-)
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    Nice infos

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    I may need to update this with some moar info!

    I figure out shit as I go along reading peoples build threads. The stuff I really would like to get across to people is what WORKS and what DOESNT WORK, for example "SPEC" clutches being garbage and other stuff like that :P

    soon!

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    recently added


    ---------------------

    A note for choosing a clutch: Recently I have seen a lot of people having crank-walked their 2j's. I met a guy at the Supra meet that crank walked his 600whp 2J personally. So all this to say, when choosing a clutch be away of the danger of getting something extra grippy, what happens is that under heavy load on high horsepower applications where the clutch is too sticky it forces the crank shaft so hard it walks the bearings. Be aware of the bottom end condition of the motor you are buying if you are planning high horsepower without a rebuild... When the crank shaft comes off alignment it essentially destroys everything, a full bottom end rebuild being needed afterward, be warned!

    Example of this from a DSM.


  15. #15
    12000 RPM

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    A word about crankwalk:

    It isn't so much the grippyness of the clutch that kills the thrust bearings or the power the motor is making, is the increased clamp loads on some pressure plates such as ACT and RPS that are used to get more friction and thus hold more power. With the factory clutch start switch, you must depress the clutch to start the car; when the motor is not running there is no oil between the thrust bearings and block/crankshaft, so it's essentially metal on metal which is not how the bearing is supposed to operate. At factory clamp loads this is not a huge issue unless you own a DSM, but increasing the clamp loads with a stiffer pressure plate puts more stress on the thrust bearing everytime you start the car with the clutch pressed. The wear on the thrust bearing is also not the biggest issue, but the design of it where it will fall into the rotating assembly if it wears too much and do lots of bad things.

    2 Solutions:0
    - Disable clutch start switch (illegal on cars after 1990 or something like that even though most nissans in the 90s didn't have them). I've done this and I see no signs of crankwalk on my heavy pressure plated-2jz

    -Get new thrust bearings and pull small tack welds to hold them to the block, so they can never fall down into the rotating assembly. This is a bit overkill IMO but if you have access to them, its a bit of added security for relatively cheap. Even just changing the thrust bearings periodically is sufficient I'd think, if you insist on leaving the clutch-start enabled.

  16. #16
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    that is a very interesting solution you bring up there, I wasn't aware that the clutch start switch had any affect on initial lubrication of the bearings. Do you mind if I add this information you provided into the bible?

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    12000 RPM

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    of course, thats why I posted it here.

    The clutch start doesn't neccessarily have anything to do with lubrication, its the fact that without the engine running, there is no lubrication and you're applying direct thrust from the pressure plate to an otherwise un lubricated bearing. Pretty much the only time the crankshaft sees any signifant amount of thrust is during clutching, the power strokes are all acting radially aswell any tension from the drive belts and torsional resistance from the clutch/tranny/tires.

    There are plenty of reasons why aside from price I went with an automatic aristo 2jz

  18. #18
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    Citation Envoyé par StraightSix Voir le message
    of course, thats why I posted it here.

    The clutch start doesn't neccessarily have anything to do with lubrication, its the fact that without the engine running, there is no lubrication and you're applying direct thrust from the pressure plate to an otherwise un lubricated bearing. Pretty much the only time the crankshaft sees any signifant amount of thrust is during clutching, the power strokes are all acting radially aswell any tension from the drive belts and torsional resistance from the clutch/tranny/tires.

    There are plenty of reasons why aside from price I went with an automatic aristo 2jz
    thanks man, I added it all into the bible

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    you people are geniuses man if school were as interesting as this id be a gynocalogist lol
    "The mean streets of MTL are effin' up my car"

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    how do you rep i dont know how ;(
    "The mean streets of MTL are effin' up my car"

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