The 2JZ information thread (swap bible)

Good stuff Jamie!!!

For the crank walk, on the mkII its not a big deal, there is no clutch start switch on our cars!
You just have to remember not to push the clutch in when ready to start the engine.

But as mentioned, for any cars with a clutch start switch... better disable it with the JZs.
 
I have been doing some digging on 7.5 diffs lately and found this so far:

Since you already mentioned the tru-trac, I'll skip that.

For the MKII:
- KAAZ makes a lsd, you can find it on some web stores for 1100$ or close to that.
- Weir Performance (http://www.weirperformance.com/) offers a very interesting rebuild kit that increases surface friction for about 200$
- Toyota sells the TRD lsd unit (www.vancouvertoyota.com) for 675$ I will have some feedback on this soon as we are putting one in my friends 2JZ mkII.
- If you want to lock your diff, you can use a special unit that replaces the center cage in the lsd. (I'll have pics later) That parctice is widely used by the 4X4 guys and since some of the toyota pick-up trucks use 7.5 diffs, they fit in ours. That mod is what I presently have on my car and it works very well! It's not a full lock, it locks when you put some load on the diff. CP Performance can do this mod for you.

ring and pinions:
you can get just about any ratio from Weir Performance 3.42, 3.58, 3.73, 4.10, 4.30, 4.56, 4.88, 5.29, 5.71 in either new or used condition.
Also 3.90 r&p can be had from the cessida diff.

best ratio for a JZ all depends on the intent, for street use the 3.73 will give you great gaz/milage but slow take-offs. The 4.10 or 4.30 will be better for race oriented peeps. The 3.90 is a good choice for a full street user that will occasionally put the car on the track.

my 2cents on this topic.
 
I can start adding to this myself personally now ;)

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jaurais une petite information savé vous si un crank de supra 2jzgte twin turbo de 94 a 97 fit sur mon bolck 2jz 93 non turbo merci
 
sorry man I dont have that info specifically, but I can get it, I have to check part numbers, I'll get back to you with an update when I have some time
 
ses quoi la différence entre les 2 moteur moi jai luis du bas ds mon supra 93 importé je voudrais savoir si ses le moteur original pi ses quel le mieux pour mon supra merci
 
Its written all in the sticky above.

USDM/JDM

the injectors are different
the turbos are different
the egr system is not equipped on the jdm motor
the cams are different
the airflow sensors are different
the ecu maps are different



mk4compare.gif
 
Mostly good read, however FCD on a JDM 2JZ is a terrible idea unless you have some other fuel control system once the voltage gets clamped.
 
I'd do it, its about the same amount of work and procedure to put it in an RX7 like it is to put it into my car.

http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/showthread.php?59917-The-2JZ-swap-bible-2JZGTE-MA61-build-thread

this is ongoing right now.

You need:

engine and transmission (with the right bellhousing) you can do 2jz R154 like I'm doing, if your loaded you can swap in a 6speed getrag, your going to have to get the front tailshaft of the r154 transmission and have it adapted to your stock rx7 tailshaft. you need to do the wiring, havnt done it yet, I'll post up what I figure out. You need to make custom engine mounts, maybe a rear transmission cross member, it depends how the original transmission sat, you might have to massage the tunnel a bit because the r154 is wide.

Very good idea for a swap, especially if its an FD
 
I'd do it, its about the same amount of work and procedure to put it in an RX7 like it is to put it into my car.

http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/showthread.php?59917-The-2JZ-swap-bible-2JZGTE-MA61-build-thread

this is ongoing right now.

You need:

engine and transmission (with the right bellhousing) you can do 2jz R154 like I'm doing, if your loaded you can swap in a 6speed getrag, your going to have to get the front tailshaft of the r154 transmission and have it adapted to your stock rx7 tailshaft. you need to do the wiring, havnt done it yet, I'll post up what I figure out. You need to make custom engine mounts, maybe a rear transmission cross member, it depends how the original transmission sat, you might have to massage the tunnel a bit because the r154 is wide.

Very good idea for a swap, especially if its an FD

thank you, you know someone who can do that kind of work?
im not that good into that kind of stuff yet, and do you know how much it would cost excluding the engine and the transmission?
thanks for the info
 
your looking at 5-6k for the basic swap parts, if you get deals on all your parts. Then whatever the cost of installation is, I have no idea because I'm doing this myself.

Charles at CP performance could probably help you out with that, hes responsible for one of the DMCC cars, he knows his shit. But he moved I dont know what his new address is :/
try calling him: 450) (572-1686
 
your looking at 5-6k for the basic swap parts, if you get deals on all your parts. Then whatever the cost of installation is, I have no idea because I'm doing this myself.

Charles at CP performance could probably help you out with that, hes responsible for one of the DMCC cars, he knows his shit. But he moved I dont know what his new address is :/
try calling him: 450) (572-1686
 
your looking at 5-6k for the basic swap parts, if you get deals on all your parts. Then whatever the cost of installation is, I have no idea because I'm doing this myself.

Charles at CP performance could probably help you out with that, hes responsible for one of the DMCC cars, he knows his shit. But he moved I dont know what his new address is :/
try calling him: (450) 572-1686
 
how's this thing coming along?

There are a few more things I can add from the work I've done on my own swap to this point.

The Aristo 2JZGTE uses a Hydrofan, now what this means is that your cooling fan motor is essentially a hydraulic fluid motor, and the hydraulic fluid pump that powers the fan motor runs on a common shaft with the water-pump and uses a common housing as well... Now you can easily mock up the hydrofan set up for a 2JZ Swap, you just need the Aristo or MK3 1JZ Hydrofan and fasten up the connections. But for my build I decided that a stock hydro fan is not going to give me the cooling efficient I'm looking for... The best solution to this problem is an aluminium duel core radiator with slim-fans along with a HydroFan Delete.

How to Delete the 1JZ/2JZ Aristo Hydro-Fan.

The MKIV Supra did not use a hydrofan. To Delete the Hydro system you need to purchase a new MKIV water pump with NO Hydraulic fan pump included, you also need the rear portion of the water pump which is the rear housing... These parts are often sold separately and you need both parts to do the conversion.

Driftmotion.com sells the entire pump assembly including the rear housing.

dlgateway.php


http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-2jz-gte1jz-gtewaterpump.php


Then you need your upgraded cooling system:


This is what I picked up for my conversion and mitshimoto covers a lot of models so you might be lucky enough to get one that bolts right into your chassis, I was not so lucky so I picked up a kit for an MK3 and made a lower supporting bracket for it, also using the stock MK3 top radiator brackets to hold it down, you could also make those top brackets out of aluminium if you have some bending skills and time to make it look nice.

mishimoto-radiator-fan-shroud-combo-86-92-supra.jpg





The lower bracket modification for custom swaps.


There is a good post on the subject by Daves2jzgte on Celicasupra.com

http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/s...o-fit-all-MK3-rads-in-MK2s&highlight=radiator

(Daves Car)

Mk3_rad_install_6.jpg


Mk3_rad_install_7.jpg






I used a 2"/3" piece of angle aluminium like Dave, cut it to fit in place as the lower rad bracket, then drilled 2 holes to fasten it to the car then bored 2 holes in the 3" part of plate for the radiator feet then hand machined 2 rubber insulating bushings on the bench grinder, I used a rubber mallot head, you need to be sure the rad doesn't come into direct contact with the car because corrosion can occur from the different metals touching so these bushigns are fairly important... I'm pretty sure you can get these bushings brand new directly from the dealership but because it was a weekend when I did it and you know how it is when your a DIY person on a budget on weekend, thats just how you get shit done lol. *


(ignore the pipe) 2x3 aluminium stock

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(My craftsmanship)

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Downpipe Selection


Choosing a down-pipe for your swap is also another interesting decision. Since I'm going to run my car BPU for now and keep the twin-turbos I had to find a down-pipe that would be a close fit for the swap I'm doing in my MA60 Supra chassis.

What I chose was more of an educated decision that a confirmation of fitment so I will be able to update soon if it works out or not. I chose an MK3 down-pipe that has been designed to work with an Aristo 2JZ swap. So a 2JZ in MA70 Chassis. I figure this pipe will be the closest fit possible I can find without going full custom, what I plan to do is have this pipe slightly tweaked if it doesn't fit, cut it up an have it re-welded

dlgateway.php


Shes coming along, intercooler fitment is what is happening next. Choosing the right inter-cooler and mounting position for your swap is also important. I'll post more details when I have it all installed.

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And the car... shes about ready for her engine..

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2JZ engine in my 1971 Toyota FJ 40

I'd like to put a 2JZ engine in my FJ40 what 4 or 5 speed transmission would work for this application?




So many of the same questions, all the answers in one place.

IMG_0278copy.jpg


The 2jz in brief

The 2JZ is a 3.0 inline 6 engine produced by Toyota motor company starting in 1991. Based roughly on the build of the 1JZ this model has 4 variants. The 2JZGE which is the non turbo model, the 2JZGTE twin turbo (Japanese spec) the 2JZGTE USDM spec twin turbo (see below for differences) And the 2JZGTE VVTI motor twin turbo.


The Chassis codes and models the engine was available in.



2JZGTE

Japan:

Toyota Supra - JZA80 (2jzgte) - Ceramic
Toyota Aristo - JZS147 / V300 JZS161 Aristo (2jzgte) - Ceramic

North America:


Toyota Supra JZA80 (2jzgte) stainless steel

2jz_2.jpg


2JZGE Naturally Aspirated with no additional oil squirters

Toyota Altezza / Lexus IS 300 (J-SPEC) / USDM - AS300
Toyota Aristo / Lexus GS 300 (J-SPEC) / USDM (front sump) ZS1xx
Toyota Crown/Toyota Crown Majesta (J-SPEC) - S130
Toyota Mark II (J-SPEC) (Front sump) - JZX81-A
Toyota Chaser (J-SPEC) (front sump) - JZX81
Toyota Cresta (J-SPEC) (front sump) - JZX81
Toyota Progres (luxury sedan) (J-SPEC) - NC300
Toyota Soarer / Lexus SC 300 (J-SPEC) /USDM (mid sump) - JZZ31
Toyota Supra MK IV (J-SPEC) / USDM (mid sump) - JZA80

2JZ_S.jpg


Power Output and motor differences

2JZGE: 220 hp @ 5800 rpm / 220 ft.lbs @ 4800 rpm

mk4compare.gif



Differences from JDM to USDM



- The Camshafts are different
- The USDM has larger injectors (550 cc/min low impedance, requires resistor pack for USDM model, 440 cc/min high impedance for JDM models )
- The USDM 2JZ has a EGR where as the JDM one does not. (JDM head can be drilled out and is already tapped for bolts)
- The USDM 2JZ runs off afm/maf + map, where as the JDM one is map based, no afm
- The turbos are different, J-spec got ceramic and USDM spec got stainless steel.


Installation


You can put any engine in any car. You need to know how to weld so the 2JZ swap is not for the faint of heart, or the poor.

The 2jz swap is often difficult and very expensive. If you choose to put one in a RWD toyota you will have the least amount of trouble but 90% of the work you have to do is custom. The research I used for the most part is based on swapping a 2JZGTE into an MA61 (82-86) Supra and closely applies to those swapping a 2J into a USDM MarkIII (MA70) which ran a 7MGTE. In this case, even a lot of the reservoirs, hoses and piping can be purchased from sites like Driftmotion.com to swap either one of the Japanese imported JZ motors into the MA70 Chassis. The parts were made to fit this motor into the chassis in most cases if you pick up a full JDM MarkIII (JZA70) clip from a JDM shop if you prefer the 1jz. Almost all the same procedures and suggestions can be used swapping these motors into any other rear wheel drive chassis.

In the case of the MA** chasiss You can use the automatic transmission cross member in most cases to fit the tail-end of the motor/transmission assembly, but it depends on the specific chassis design of the car.

When choosing your engine you also have to consider the position of the oil sump, depending on the chassis it came from it could be a front sump oil pan, mid sump or a rear sump, verify your sub-frame before buying your engine. For example, in my Supra I would need a front sump motor. You can convert back or forth the sump location, but you have to source the parts, the oil pick up, the pan and you might even have to re-route your oil return lines, a hassle when you could just pick up the one you need right away.

- You need the motor and wiring harness(2000$)
- Transmission (r154 $500-1000)
- Clutch kit (1000$+ depending on RWHP goal)
- Bellhousing (JZ to R154 282$ new from toyota)
- Custom engine mounts (make yourself (cheap)or have them made 200-300$)
-Transmission cross member (depends on what car your putting it in, might have to be custom) May use an automatic member depending on car)
- Custom wiring harness (you can do it yourself with about 30 hours of splicing or pay to have it done)
- Intercooler and piping (200$+150$+welding and fitting $$)
- Custom drive-shaft (if its an old toyota, beef up the 2 piece or get a custom 1 piece ~300$)
- Duel core radiator and electric fan kit, most likely a custom shroud too (~300$)

Decide to keep the twins or go single, either way you have to decide how your going to make and route your exhaust. DIY for less than 300$ in stainless steel.

----------------------------------------
If you plan to mod the engine, stay away from VVTI, its hard to tune because of the variance of the timing. A VVTI motor absolutely needs a standalone management system, and you wont be able to run more than 500 wheel without dumping a lot more cash into the management.

VVTI= Variable Valve Timing with intelligence

The OBD1 motor and the OBDII VVTI are both GTE, both the same engine but the latter has variable valve timing which is a pain to tune correctly. you want the OBD1 motor for a high horsepower straightforward / budget swap.

Difference between J-Spec and USDM

USA use better turbos, they make more power stock (stainless steel for USA compared to ceramic Japan). (gentelmans agreement on Japan stuck less powerful turbos on the J-spec engine to not surpass 280 hp) USA should be pushing 330 hp with 550cc injectors instead of the japan 440 cc as well.

Both engines are equally as good for single turbo if they are GTE motors. The GTE models have extra oil squirters to cool the pistons compared to the non turbo 2jzge which did not have them.

Boosting and modification

The JDM spec stock twin turbos are ceramic turbos, means that turbine wheels are made of ceramic where the USDM impeller wheels are made of stainless steel. The advantage of the stainless steel turbine wheel is that it can hold more boost, safely. In rare cases people have over-boosted ceramic turbos resulting in the impeller wheel detaching from the input shaft.

2jz83blue1P7180666.jpg


Fuel Injector chart

http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm#TOYOTA_LEXUS

Transmissions

R154 5-speed

A good condition r154 can hold the stock power of a 2jzgte. If you plan to put down more than 400 wheel or you really like banging gears you should consider rebuilding that transmission with merlin crawler pieces.

A fully built merlin crawler R154 should hold 800 hp all day.

------

Word of advice. A lot of people use "SPEC" clutches for their swaps, and frankly, these are garbage clutches. They overrate their products badly. A 700 hp rated clutch slips at 400 WHP, and only 400 because the clutch was slipping on the dyno. So for your own good, stay away from this company. If your looking for a good clutch for one of these swaps, send me a PM I can hook you up with a contact.

A note for choosing a clutch: Recently I have seen a lot of people having crank-walked their 2j's. I met a guy at the Supra meet that crank walked his 600whp 2J personally. So all this to say, when choosing a clutch be away of the danger of getting something extra grippy, what happens is that under heavy load on high horsepower applications where the clutch is too sticky it forces the crank shaft so hard it walks the bearings. Be aware of the bottom end condition of the motor you are buying if you are planning high horsepower without a rebuild... When the crank shaft comes off alignment it essentially destroys everything, a full bottom end rebuild being needed afterward, be warned!

Example of this from a DSM.

1piece_inside.jpg



Some notes from StraightSix







---------------------------

Hardcore guys will convert their "push" throwout system to a hydraulic "pull" system to avoid bending clutch forks and having smoother clutch operation under heavy load.



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Getrag 6-speed

Expect to pay about 5000$ for one of these. A very strong and performant transmission, BUT

Next to impossible to install without welding and sheetmetal work on almost any car except what it was intended to be used in. Its about 4-6 inches longer than the r154, wider and much heavier. To give you an idea, to fit an r154 in an MA61 you have to smash the transmission tunnel with a hammer. To fit to getrag you have to cut the tunnel out and make your own.

Not worth it IMO unless your looking for retarded RWHP

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Getrag 6 speed / R154

BoxComparison02.jpg


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Differential

I'll use the 7.5" as an example because it is a popular pumpkin in these cars.

The best modification is the Detroit tru trac differential swap rebuilt with new toyota bearings and crush washers/rings. There are also other options but less information on the products.

http://www.eaton.com/EatonCom/ProductsServices/PerformanceProducts/Products/Differentials/DetroitTruetrac/index.htm

People have also used IS300 LSD units in the 7.5s but I dont have any more information than that on the subject.

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A note from MrTechNic






Stroker and high horsepower modifications


A common big HP option for the 2JZGTE is what they call a Stroker Kit. Which in essence is an entirely new bottom end rebuilt with impossibly strong parts raising the displacement to 3.4 L.

The companies that make these kits that people are the most familiar with are HKS and Titan who sell either kits or pre-assembled long blocks to do the modifications.

http://www.titanmotorsports.com/enco.html

http://www.titanmotorsports.com/builenparpac.html

http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=2409

A lot of people do their own custom single turbo swaps, but some companies do make kits, which can be very pricey.

http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=687
http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=695


Twin turbo kits are also available from HKS

Hks 3,4l strokerkit.
Hks gt2835 twinturbokit

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