OFFICIAL- getting into the sport- but too lazy to read all the threads

You can do an ASElc lapping day or a lapp'N'learn day. Plenty of track time.


i signed up for the lapping club when i went to get a helmet from Carl, so i will be there monday nights. it starts monday the 30th i think ( in a week) ? will there be any weekend events with ASELC besides the lap n learn ?

thanks for all the input guys, its very helpful !
 
Are those tire for track only? If it's the case forget the kumho KU31 (ecsta spt). It's what I have and they are awesome in the rain, but on the dry....well they are 320 threadwear. I bought those because I do 400km a week and wanted tire for both DD and track.

You could check the kumho XS, they are 104$ on tire rack and thay make them in 205/50/15 if you decide to go with this size.
 
will there be any weekend events with ASELC besides the lap n learn ?

thanks for all the input guys, its very helpful !

I don't have the schedule in front of me, but there are usually lapping days at Calabogie and Mosport. Look at this forum for lapping days with other clubs, like Viperclub/Bimmershop and VAG days. There is also a bunch (Sunday cup I beleive) doing a Shannonville day.

There is also High Perf Driver Education (HPDE) days with BMW Québec.

You have a wide choice.
 
the thing is i know how much a wider heawier tire/ wheel slows down my car and i always ran 195-205 wide tires. more than that is just too much parasitic drag. the car is very light and not powerful ~1800 lbs and maybe a 100hp its about as quick as most stock 2.0l cars or around 140-150hp, that i tested against /beat.
You may be focused on the wrong thing. More than the weight of the tire, you may need to pay attention to the width of your wheels.

In my (fairly extensive) experience with Hankook R-S3 tires, it is clear that they demand wide wheels to work. For example, the 225/45-R15 on a 15x7" TDR ProRace 1.2 feels very "squishy" on turn-in. It grips, but feedback isn't the greatest. However, when I run 225/45-R16 size on a 16x8" Fuchs wheel, turn-in is nice and crisp. In fact, many people recommend a 9-inch-wide wheel for a 225mm R-S3. They really do need the width.

Assuming your Tercel has 15x6" wheels, you'd almost certainly be better off with a 205mm tire. If money is an issue, consider the Kumho Ecsta XS.
 
You may be focused on the wrong thing. More than the weight of the tire, you may need to pay attention to the width of your wheels.

In my (fairly extensive) experience with Hankook R-S3 tires, it is clear that they demand wide wheels to work. For example, the 225/45-R15 on a 15x7" TDR ProRace 1.2 feels very "squishy" on turn-in. It grips, but feedback isn't the greatest. However, when I run 225/45-R16 size on a 16x8" Fuchs wheel, turn-in is nice and crisp. In fact, many people recommend a 9-inch-wide wheel for a 225mm R-S3. They really do need the width.

Assuming your Tercel has 15x6" wheels, you'd almost certainly be better off with a 205mm tire. If money is an issue, consider the Kumho Ecsta XS.


Are you sure that size 225-45-16 exist in RS-3 models ? I don't see them listed on tirerack ??
 
You may be focused on the wrong thing. More than the weight of the tire, you may need to pay attention to the width of your wheels.

In my (fairly extensive) experience with Hankook R-S3 tires, it is clear that they demand wide wheels to work. For example, the 225/45-R15 on a 15x7" TDR ProRace 1.2 feels very "squishy" on turn-in. It grips, but feedback isn't the greatest. However, when I run 225/45-R16 size on a 16x8" Fuchs wheel, turn-in is nice and crisp. In fact, many people recommend a 9-inch-wide wheel for a 225mm R-S3. They really do need the width.

Assuming your Tercel has 15x6" wheels, you'd almost certainly be better off with a 205mm tire. If money is an issue, consider the Kumho Ecsta XS.


that is a very good point, i was wondering how wheel width affected the tires perfornace/contact patch shape. in my head a narrower rim ovalizes the sidewall and contact patch, making it "roll" from one side to the other. am i close?

i've run 15x7 for years and thats the minimum recommended for a 225 tire thats why i was looking at the r-s3. but ill try to stick with a similar set up im use to for this year (15x7 with 5-15mm offset and a 205 tire )

yesterday i finally got insurance back on my "beast" and luckily, foundout ill be getting screwd sideways for the next month or so , a bit ahead of time before i got these

http://montreal.kijiji.ca/c-cars-ve...-with-Ecsta-SPT-205-50zr15-W0QQAdIdZ372410379 id like to get these just for the RPF1's, ofcourse would be better in a 35 offset but thers not much of a price difference from this to a new set of just tires. gotta pull a rabbit out of my HAsT and sell some stuff quickly
 
I don't have the schedule in front of me, but there are usually lapping days at Calabogie and Mosport. Look at this forum for lapping days with other clubs, like Viperclub/Bimmershop and VAG days. There is also a bunch (Sunday cup I beleive) doing a Shannonville day.

There is also High Perf Driver Education (HPDE) days with BMW Québec.

You have a wide choice.

great ! ill have a look
 
Seems a little expensive to start lapping. You can lap a lot with 1300$. I would only consider it if you really dont have any other rims.
 
sooo... finally im getting the RPF1's tomorrow, any objections ?

Like I said in my post it depends what they are use for. For track only those aren't the best tire. The RPF1 are really light and are supposed to be great.
If you use the tires for daily drive and track, they are a good compromise I think.
 
Nope!

btw... for 205/50R15, Kumho XS are pretty awesome as well. Lots of grip, wet and dry. We got them in stock at the store Nazar. $680 tax in.
 
i dont have a good set of rims, well, because im stupid or blind. i bought a used set last year just before i moved, long story short i got stuck with them, this year when removing the bad tires one rim is skewed... that is allot why rpf1. and ill get them for a grand.

this year i will keep driving the car to work and where ever else i can, since the piston rings are like OEM /chrome = take a looong time to break in .

Kevin, your "Nope!" means nope no objection or nope dont buy that crap ? i think its a good way out in my situation even if i replace two rims it will be pretty much the same but the tires wll be better than the rims in that case, unlike now.

thanks guys! gives peace of mind
 
Nope, no objections.

For the Piston rings, honestly... throw in some classic 'Dino' Oil, toss in a break in additive (adds zinc and other wear protectors), and beat the snot out of the car. After thats done, then rings should be broken in.

I've been told the best way to break in an engine is on the dyno... 10 pulls, and then change the oil to whatever you want and leave it alone.
 
Nope, no objections.

For the Piston rings, honestly... throw in some classic 'Dino' Oil, toss in a break in additive (adds zinc and other wear protectors), and beat the snot out of the car. After thats done, then rings should be broken in.

I've been told the best way to break in an engine is on the dyno... 10 pulls, and then change the oil to whatever you want and leave it alone.


thats for aftermarket rings like totalseal... the break in fast, OEM rings take thousands of kilometers to fully break in. that is what Tom told me.

i just came back from Mt-tremblant RPF1's in the back, kinda shitty weather but the car ran good. one thing i gotta do is go back to a lower temp thermostat, its definetly loosing noticeable power once heat soak sets in.

stored the wheels for now, they need a good clean up the guy covered them ( even the thread ) with armorall... hoping to have time for an alignement saturday so i can put them on for monday.
 
My brake in was simple. I drive the car around. Doing stops and all the normal stuff. And don't stay at 1 specific RPM for too long. Accelerate gently then decelerate.

Also for the heat soak, on the track you will always have it. Most cars run above 80deg C(stock usually opens at 82 something). The cooler thermostat will just delay for the first few laps, but the soak will set in. Just letting you know its not a 100% cure. A thick intake manifold gasket might help better. Some companies make from a sort of plastic that keeps the heat away.

Also if I am not mistaken your turbo right? The heating of the intake air might be another issue.
 
no not turbo, there arent many parts made for my car but there was a guy in the US at some point making a few Phenolic intake manifold spacers and i have one !

i had the 82c thermostat before and the temp stayed around 190F on the gauge untill really stepping on it it would rise to 200F, now i have an OEM 90c thermostat, warming up at idle its at 200F or just above, start driving it goes down a bit and for the trip on the highway it was a bit over 200F


does shimming the hood higher help any ?
 
This year i will keep driving the car to work and where ever else i can...
Personally, I wouldn't run Enkei RPF1's on the street. They're notoriously easy to bend. The Evo and BMW forums are full of guys who have bent RPF1's just by running the curbs on the track...I'd hate to see what Montreal potholes would do to them!

Also, I would be very wary of buying used RPF1's wheels. I'd be suspicious that the previous owner is selling them because they're already bent or cracked. If you've already bought them, at least take them to Talon Tire and have them check to see if they're out-of-round. If so, try to get your money back.
 
thanks guys ill got on it

CANADAM, i figured its ok since the thermostat is a 90c = 194f , its that it runs better around 190f thats why id like to cool it down. maybe the civic double core half rad is not big enough now.
the most the temp goes up is ~205f after running on the highway for over an hour at constant load ( up hill to mt tremblant...) at 3k+rpm

LanEvo, i didnt know that. will check asap tomorrow, i heard theyre strong... i will use them for the track only then. one thing tho, bmw's are much heavier than my car and probably run lower profile tires that must not help...
 
just got the rpf1's on a few hours ago, they are perfectly straight and tires are 2x 9/32 and the other two are just below the 9/32 line. should be good for a while.

this is with the other 15x7 35 offset, the rpf1's are a little more tucked than this ( 41 offset )

p1050994g.jpg



p1050996o.jpg



p1050997s.jpg



would be nice to drop it lower but im not going to. its gotta function not look good. and atleast now it didnt scrape the lip on the drive way like with the 195/45/15

hope i can get an alignment in time
 
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