DIY: How to get rid of ants outside and inside the house for less than 10 bucks

I still have carpenter ants and yesterday I found the nest. Tonight I'm going to make holes, fill them with bleach and then plug them with and spray.
 
Bon, en cherchant sur le terrain, j,ai défais un nid de charpentière mais il vente trop pour le bruler...

En cherchant pour voir ou elles rentraient, j,ai vu qu'elle le fesait par la cuisine d'été et je sais que la lisse tout le tour est humide et pourrie. Donc j'ai surment un nid aussi la dedans. D'après moi, je vais avoir des travaux assé majeur a effectué de se coté.

J'aimerais pouvoir me sauver de tout défaire et remonté car la toiture a été faite l'année passée
 
This won't work. Your approach is too localized. You said 3 inch demarcation, you must have a hell of a colony or multiple colonies.

The only way to solve your issue:

Method 1

In a 1 litre three-necked flask, equipped with a thermometer, glycerine-sealed mechanical stirrer (compare Fig. II, 7, 10) and calcium chloride (or cotton wool) guard tube, introduce successively 700 g. (380 ml.) of concentrated sulphuric acid, 100 g. (53 ml.) of oleum (20 per cent. S03), 90 g. (81-5 ml.) of chlorobenzene and 68 g. of chloral hydrate. Stir the mixture rapidly enough to keep the materials well mixed for 1 hour: during this period the temperature rises to about 50° and some granular D.D.T. separates. Stir the mixture for a further 1 hour in order to complete the reaction. Pour the reaction mixture with stirring into 3 litres of a 2 : 1 mixture of ice and water. Filter the precipitated somewhat sticky solid at the pump and wash it well with cold water. Remove the occluded acid by transferring the crude product to a beaker containing 1 litre of boiling water and stirring well: this causes the D.D.T. to melt. Decant the aqueous layer, and repeat the washing with two further 1-litre portions of water. To the third washing add a little sodium bicarbonate and stir until the mixture is neutral to litmus. Filter at the pump, and dry upon filter paper in the air or in an air oven at 50-60°. The yield of crude product, m.p. ca. 90°, is 90 g.; the low m.p. is due to the presence of isomers of the para compound. The pure substance, m.p. 108°, may be obtained with 50-60 per cent, recovery by recrystallization from n-propyl alcohol (5 ml. per gram).

Method 2

Place 17 g. of chloral hydrate crystals and 25.5 g. (23 ml.) of chlorobenzene in a 500 ml. Pyrex glass-stoppered reagent bottle and warm on a water bath, with occasional shaking, until all the crystals have dissolved. Cool to room temperature and slowly add 180 ml. of concentrated sulphuric acid. Secure the glass stopper (rubber tubing over stopper held tightly by copper wire round neck of bottle) and shake mechanically for 1 to 1 -5 hours, and then allow to stand for 15 minutes. Pour the contents of the reagent bottle slowly and with constant stirring into 700 ml. of water contained in a litre beaker. When cold, filter the crude D.D.T. through a sintered glass funnel and wash several times with water. (A further 1 -5 g. of impure D.D.T. may be obtained by diluting the filtrate considerably.) Transfer the solid to a beaker and stir it for 5-10 minutes with 50 ml. of 2 per cent, sodium carbonate solution or 4 per cent, sodium bicarbonate solution. Filter and wash with distilled water until the filtrate is neutral to litmus; suck the solid as dry as possible. Transfer the residue to a small mortar, add 100 ml. of ethyl alcohol and triturate with a pestle for 5-10 minutes. Filter through a dry Buchner funnel, wash twice with 25 ml. portions of ethanol, and continue the suction until most of the solvent has been removed. Dry the residue at 70° in a steam oven (or on a water bath). The yield of D.D.T., m.p. 107°, is 15 g. The perfectly pure compound, m.p. 108°, may be obtained by recrystallization from n-propyl alcohol (5 ml. per gram).

We can make it very mild, it'll be extremely effective. Against everything. Including Mosquitoes.
 
This won't work. Your approach is too localized. You said 3 inch demarcation, you must have a hell of a colony or multiple colonies.

The only way to solve your issue:

Method 1

In a 1 litre three-necked flask, equipped with a thermometer, glycerine-sealed mechanical stirrer (compare Fig. II, 7, 10) and calcium chloride (or cotton wool) guard tube, introduce successively 700 g. (380 ml.) of concentrated sulphuric acid, 100 g. (53 ml.) of oleum (20 per cent. S03), 90 g. (81-5 ml.) of chlorobenzene and 68 g. of chloral hydrate. Stir the mixture rapidly enough to keep the materials well mixed for 1 hour: during this period the temperature rises to about 50° and some granular D.D.T. separates. Stir the mixture for a further 1 hour in order to complete the reaction. Pour the reaction mixture with stirring into 3 litres of a 2 : 1 mixture of ice and water. Filter the precipitated somewhat sticky solid at the pump and wash it well with cold water. Remove the occluded acid by transferring the crude product to a beaker containing 1 litre of boiling water and stirring well: this causes the D.D.T. to melt. Decant the aqueous layer, and repeat the washing with two further 1-litre portions of water. To the third washing add a little sodium bicarbonate and stir until the mixture is neutral to litmus. Filter at the pump, and dry upon filter paper in the air or in an air oven at 50-60°. The yield of crude product, m.p. ca. 90°, is 90 g.; the low m.p. is due to the presence of isomers of the para compound. The pure substance, m.p. 108°, may be obtained with 50-60 per cent, recovery by recrystallization from n-propyl alcohol (5 ml. per gram).

Method 2

Place 17 g. of chloral hydrate crystals and 25.5 g. (23 ml.) of chlorobenzene in a 500 ml. Pyrex glass-stoppered reagent bottle and warm on a water bath, with occasional shaking, until all the crystals have dissolved. Cool to room temperature and slowly add 180 ml. of concentrated sulphuric acid. Secure the glass stopper (rubber tubing over stopper held tightly by copper wire round neck of bottle) and shake mechanically for 1 to 1 -5 hours, and then allow to stand for 15 minutes. Pour the contents of the reagent bottle slowly and with constant stirring into 700 ml. of water contained in a litre beaker. When cold, filter the crude D.D.T. through a sintered glass funnel and wash several times with water. (A further 1 -5 g. of impure D.D.T. may be obtained by diluting the filtrate considerably.) Transfer the solid to a beaker and stir it for 5-10 minutes with 50 ml. of 2 per cent, sodium carbonate solution or 4 per cent, sodium bicarbonate solution. Filter and wash with distilled water until the filtrate is neutral to litmus; suck the solid as dry as possible. Transfer the residue to a small mortar, add 100 ml. of ethyl alcohol and triturate with a pestle for 5-10 minutes. Filter through a dry Buchner funnel, wash twice with 25 ml. portions of ethanol, and continue the suction until most of the solvent has been removed. Dry the residue at 70° in a steam oven (or on a water bath). The yield of D.D.T., m.p. 107°, is 15 g. The perfectly pure compound, m.p. 108°, may be obtained by recrystallization from n-propyl alcohol (5 ml. per gram).

We can make it very mild, it'll be extremely effective. Against everything. Including Mosquitoes.

Were you already on the no-flight list or are your efforts to be part of it still not bearing fruit? :p

I'd like to see Logik or Frank go to Canadian Tyre looking for a mechanical stirrer or a glass stopper.
 
go to the store and find a bottle of this:

17091.WilsonAntexAntKillerLiquid100ml_4.jpg


I had carpenter ants in my walls. They had gotten inside via a crack in the mortar between the stones of my wall. I knew they were in my walls cause at night I could here those fuckers. Anyways I put the liquid at the entrance of that crack in the mortar since they were using it to enter and exit the house and also put the liquid in the known areas they would travel. After a week I never heard of them again.

By the way if you have carpenter ants in your house they might have "migrated" from there from a tree a stump or other wood related items. Look there first for the infestation of carpenter ants since that's probably where they came from to access your house.
 
Were you already on the no-flight list or are your efforts to be part of it still not bearing fruit? :p

I'd like to see Logik or Frank go to Canadian Tyre looking for a mechanical stirrer or a glass stopper.

I'm definitely on a watch list. I get flagged down every time.
 
I went apeshit on the nest last night. I poked a dozen holes with a broom stick. Then I dumped 2 jugs of bleach down the holes and I emptied a whole can of ant foam in the holes. If that does not work, I dont know what else will.
 
So small update. After having the 2 black ant colonies posted in the pics at the same place 3 summers in a row since moving in, I noticed they've been completely eradicated. There are none left. No black ants in those location.

The soil has completely sunk where they were. Like half a foot deep.

Could it be safe to assume the mix killed them since I haven't really applied any other methods and both of them have completely disappeared at 2 completely different locations?

There are some I see in the lawn from time to time, but nowhere close to how bad they were and none near the 2 locations where they were highly active.

The carpenter ants (the small red ones) unfortunately are still active and running.... but they never took any bait... nor the jam, nor the peanut butter.
 
Any of you try this stuff? diatomaceous earth

If you pour that stuff on any kind of insect, it'll kill them within 5 minutes. But once the dust gets wet, it's worthless. It's only good around the house.

Once ants know the location of the dust, they avoid it like the black plague, but come out from somewhere else.

It just kills whatever comes into contact with the dust, and thats it... It won't eliminate the colony though.


It's this product brand you find almost at any garden place or reno/home/rona depot:

http://www.rona.ca/en/insecticide-the-exterminator-80975009

In jugs and bottles.

I have tried but its worthless if you're trying to get rid of a colony. I used to put it around the foundation walls and reapply occasionally to keep them away from the house as much as I could, but it's not good for anything else.
 
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