Honda K engine

honda

on a side note, you should be more specific in your questions. a high revving k20a would run a lot different that a k24a1 from a crv for example
 
Honda oil filter always and change oil and filter every 5000km with a good quality 5w30 oil like Shell, Castrol, Valvoline, Pennsoil, Quakerstate , or even Honda not synthetic.
I've done this to all my Honda's high revving or not and never burned oil or blown up even with 200,000 + kms
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tkr said:
Honda oil filter always and change oil and filter every 5000km with a good quality 5w30 oil like Shell, Castrol, Valvoline, Pennsoil, Quakerstate , or even Honda not synthetic.
I've done this to all my Honda's high revving or not and never burned oil or blown up even with 200,000 + kms
.
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Ive read that honda oil filters are made by fram. Which is hated on bobtheoilguy forum.
 
Yes but made with Honda specs.
Not the same as a Fram filter at all.
Its all in the quality of the filter paper, and steel cartridge and a Fram is cheap but a honda one is good.
Cut open both and you'll see the difference.
 
Yes but made with Honda specs.
Not the same as a Fram filter at all.
Its all in the quality of the filter paper, and steel cartridge and a Fram is cheap but a honda one is good.
Cut open both and you'll see the difference.
 
0w30 or 5w30 stay away from 20 grade unless you want or need my services sooner.
Unless that extra 2-4 kms per gallon extra is very important to you.
 
tkr said:
0w30 or 5w30 stay away from 20 grade unless you want or need my services sooner.
Unless that extra 2-4 kms per gallon extra is very important to you.
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I have a 2012. 0w20 is recommended by the manufacturer.
 
tkr said:
0w30 or 5w30 stay away from 20 grade unless you want or need my services sooner.
Unless that extra 2-4 kms per gallon extra is very important to you.
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How can you make ANY recommendation when you have no idea what the motor is being used for, the bearing clearances, the oil temps, and pressures?

Run the thinnest oil possible while holding good pressure, especially on a K. The cam journals are particularly sensitive to lack of oil flow.
 
Synoptic Tuning said:
How can you make ANY recommendation when you have no idea what the motor is being used for, the bearing clearances, the oil temps, and pressures?

Run the thinnest oil possible while holding good pressure, especially on a K. The cam journals are particularly sensitive to lack of oil flow.
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Because I've been building them before you were born!!!
The reason they put 0w20 is to get better gas milage and using 5w30 will in no way affect oilclearance since it's the oil you're roling on and not the bearing.
Besides the oil clearance on K is the same as B and B ran on 5w30 so stick to tuning and leave the engine building tips to people that build engines for a living.
 
xesk4x said:
I have a 2012. 0w20 is recommended by the manufacturer.
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Mine is a 2005 and it says 5w30, if you plan on keeping the car a long time then use 5w30 .
If its a lease then do what ever it says in your book....
 
If you can hold adequate pressure with a 20 oil, and you run a 30 viscosity, all your doing is sacrificing oil flow and fuel mileage, and encouraging cavitation at high rpms more. Its a lose-lose-lose situation...

On top of that you aren't even taking into account the viscosity index of the oil since there are some 10 oils out there that can be used where a 20 is recommended, some 20s where 30s are recommended, etc. The only way to really see is with pressure/temp feed back, but hey, I guess I can't plug my lap top into the oil sump...
 
Synoptic Tuning said:
If you can hold adequate pressure with a 20 oil, and you run a 30 viscosity, all your doing is sacrificing oil flow and fuel mileage, and encouraging cavitation at high rpms more. Its a lose-lose-lose situation...

On top of that you aren't even taking into account the viscosity index of the oil since there are some 10 oils out there that can be used where a 20 is recommended, some 20s where 30s are recommended, etc. The only way to really see is with pressure/temp feed back, but hey, I guess I can't plug my lap top into the oil sump...
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Theoretically speaking sounds real good but dyno tested and track proven is more real proof .
 
Synoptic Tuning said:
If you can hold adequate pressure with a 20 oil, and you run a 30 viscosity, all your doing is sacrificing oil flow and fuel mileage, and encouraging cavitation at high rpms more. Its a lose-lose-lose situation...

On top of that you aren't even taking into account the viscosity index of the oil since there are some 10 oils out there that can be used where a 20 is recommended, some 20s where 30s are recommended, etc. The only way to really see is with pressure/temp feed back, but hey, I guess I can't plug my lap top into the oil sump...
Click to expand...

tkr said:
Theoretically speaking sounds real good but dyno tested and track proven is more real proof .
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I am unsure how I can make it more clear.
 
But IF anything breaks under warranty, I have to show proof of maintenance with the recommended oil grade no?
 
You bought a Honda not a Kia so don't worry about breaking unless you drive like you stole it.
 
xesk4x said:
But IF anything breaks under warranty, I have to show proof of maintenance with the recommended oil grade no?
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Yes, Dealers will do everything in their power not to honor the warranty especially if any service was done elsewhere other than the dealer. They are rather stingy in that respect.

From a performance perspective, the only way to know if you are running the right grade oil is to test...

From a warranty perspective, the only thing I would recommend you do is to run the recommended grade oil, but run a high quality oil with proper oil change intervals and to keep record of all oil and filter changes. (Receipts, etc.)
 
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