Well its been in for a while but haven't updated.
Here's my experience with the motor mount situation. You have two options. Using the JDM motor mounts, or using the OEM motor mounts. The OEM mounts will not bolt to the JDM "uppers" or solid mounts and vice versa. If you keep the JDM ones you have to notch the crossmember. That's a "problem" but the benefits are worth it in my opinion. I would assume that if you use the OEM mounts you won't have to deal with this issue, but you'll see why I did it in this picture. In addition, the remote mount R154 mounts up spectacularly well and is perfectly centered in the shifter hole in the chassis.
You can see how low the engine sits in this picture. I can actually fit my arm, with ratchet, in behind the head of the motor to undo the upper trans bolts with zero issues. Removing the last spark plug, coil pack, and retightening the back valve cover bolts are zero issue with how it sits. You can see the height of the block in relation to the heater core stubs on the left. The OEM engine mounts are bigger than the JDM ones and I assume the engine would sit a lot higher. The oil pan isn't even below the crossmember like this, so all is well.
Now to dig my car out to get out the power steering lines and build a fuel return this week.
Here's my experience with the motor mount situation. You have two options. Using the JDM motor mounts, or using the OEM motor mounts. The OEM mounts will not bolt to the JDM "uppers" or solid mounts and vice versa. If you keep the JDM ones you have to notch the crossmember. That's a "problem" but the benefits are worth it in my opinion. I would assume that if you use the OEM mounts you won't have to deal with this issue, but you'll see why I did it in this picture. In addition, the remote mount R154 mounts up spectacularly well and is perfectly centered in the shifter hole in the chassis.
You can see how low the engine sits in this picture. I can actually fit my arm, with ratchet, in behind the head of the motor to undo the upper trans bolts with zero issues. Removing the last spark plug, coil pack, and retightening the back valve cover bolts are zero issue with how it sits. You can see the height of the block in relation to the heater core stubs on the left. The OEM engine mounts are bigger than the JDM ones and I assume the engine would sit a lot higher. The oil pan isn't even below the crossmember like this, so all is well.
Now to dig my car out to get out the power steering lines and build a fuel return this week.