how much should a rack and pinion job cost?
- Thread starter mig0s
- Start date
mig0s
Well-known member
yes it is. Well in that case thanks then! Of course i won't forget the alignment
I'll search a little for a new rack and pinion instead of re manufactured ones tho.
mig0s
Well-known member
thx but rive sud is too far
Rice.Rockets
Well-known member
bout three fiddy
6 hours to replace a steering rack and pinion ? Are you fucking serious ?
The one on my g35 has to replaced soon so im guessing it's gonna cost me an arm and a leg to repair that shit.
Also, go see someone that can rebuild your rack pinion instead of buying one @ 350$.
The one on my g35 has to replaced soon so im guessing it's gonna cost me an arm and a leg to repair that shit.
Also, go see someone that can rebuild your rack pinion instead of buying one @ 350$.
Boy you really are the stereotypical G35 owner. Read the following and tell me 6 hours is a ripoff 6hours is a bargain IMO and 350$ for a rebuilt rack is ppeanuts. List on a rebuilt Naval unit is 816$ for a 2006 TL...
Helms manual steps to remove and install steering rack on 2nd gen Acura CL V6 (basically same as TL)
Note these items during removal:
-Use solvent and a brush, wash any oil and dirt off of the valve body unit its lines, and the end of the gearbox. Blow dry with compressed air.
-Be sure to remove the steering wheel before disconnecting the steering joint. Damage to the cable reel can occur.
1) Drain the power steering fluid.
2) Raise and support the vehicle.
3) Remove the front wheels.
4) Remove the driver's airbag assembly.
5) Remove the steering wheel.
6) Remove the steering joint cover.
7) Remove the steering joint bolts, disconnect the steering joint by moving the steering joint toward the column.
8) Remove the cotter pin from the 10mm nut and loosen the nut.
9) Separate the tie-rod ball joint and knuckle.
10) Grasp the right tie-rod and pull the rack all the way to the right, then remove the right and left tie-rod ends, and locknuts.
11) Remove the exhaust pipe and mounting bracket.
12) Disconnect the A/T shift cable from the transmission.
13) Loosen the 14mm flare nut, and disconnect the pump outlet hose.
14) Loosen the 17mm flare nut, and remove the return line.
15) After disconnecting the hoses and lines, plug or seal them with a piece of tape to prevent foreign materials from entering.
Note: Do not loosen the cylinder line between the valve body unit and cylinder.
16) Remove the stiffener plates, then remove the right mounting brackets and the cushion.
17 #7 Note these items during removal:
-Use solvent and a brush, wash any oil and dirt off of the valve body unit its lines, and the end of the gearbox. Blow dry with compressed air.
-Be sure to remove the steering wheel before disconnecting the steering joint. Damage to the cable reel can occur.
1) Drain the power steering fluid.
2) Raise and support the vehicle.
3) Remove the front wheels.
4) Remove the driver's airbag assembly.
5) Remove the steering wheel.
6) Remove the steering joint cover.
7) Remove the steering joint bolts, disconnect the steering joint by moving the steering joint toward the column.
8) Remove the cotter pin from the 10mm nut and loosen the nut.
9) Separate the tie-rod ball joint and knuckle.
10) Grasp the right tie-rod and pull the rack all the way to the right, then remove the right and left tie-rod ends, and locknuts.
11) Remove the exhaust pipe and mounting bracket.
12) Disconnect the A/T shift cable from the transmission.
13) Loosen the 14mm flare nut, and disconnect the pump outlet hose.
14) Loosen the 17mm flare nut, and remove the return line.
15) After disconnecting the hoses and lines, plug or seal them with a piece of tape to prevent foreign materials from entering.
Note: Do not loosen the cylinder line between the valve body unit and cylinder.
16) Remove the stiffener plates, then remove the right mounting brackets and the cushion.
17) Pull the steering gearbox down until the pinion shaft clears the bulkhead, and remove the pinion shaft grommet from the top of the valve body unit
18) Move the steering gearbox to the passenger's side until the driver's side rack end rests on the end of the rear beam.
19) To get the driver's side rack end around the rear beam, push up and back on the passenger's sCLe rack end, then pull down on the driver's side of the steering gearbox.
Installation
1) Before installing the gearbox, slide the rack all the way to the right.
2) Pass the passenger's side of the steering gearbox above and through the passenger's side of the rear beam. Be careful not to bend or damage the power steering lines and cylinder lines when installing the gearbox.
3) Raise the driver's side of the steering gearbox above and through the driver's side of the rear beam. Then insert the pinion shaft up through the bulkhead.
4) Install the pinion shaft grommet. Align the slot in the pinion shaft grommet with the lug portion on the valve housing.
5) Install the mounting cushion on the steering gearbox.
6) Install the mounting brackets over the mounting cushion, then install the two gearbox mounting bolts.
7) Install the stiffener plates with the two gearbox monting bolts and six stiffener plate attaching bolts. Install the bolts loosely first, then tighten them securely.
8) Center the steering rack within its stroke.
9) Install the steering joint, and reconnect the steering shaft and pinion shaft. Make sure the steering joint is connected as follows:
-Insert the upper end of the steering joint onto the steering shaft (line up the bolt hole with the flat portion of the shaft).
Slip the lower end of the steering joint onto the pinion shaft (line up the bolt hole with the groove around the shaft), and loosely install the lower joint bolt. Be sure that the lower joint bolt is securely in the groove in the pinion shaft.
-Pull on the steering joint to make sure that the steering joint is fully seated. Then install the upper joint and tighten it.
10) Center the cable reel by first rotating it clockwise until it stops. Then rotate it counterclockwise (about two and half turns) until the arrow mark on the label points straight up. Reinstall the steering wheel.
11) Install the steering joint cover with the clamps and clips.
12) Connect the return line and feed line to the valve body. After connecting the fluid lines, make sure that there is no interference between the lines and other parts.
13) Thread the right and left tie-rod ends and locknut onto the rack an equal number of turns.
14) Reconnect tie-rod ends to the steering knuckles.
15) Install new cotter pins.
16) Connect the A/T shift cable to the transmission.
17) Install the exhaust pipe and mounting bracket.
18) Install front wheels.
19) Fill the system with PS fluid, and bleed air from the system.
20) After installation, perform the following checks:
-Start the engine, allow it to idle, and turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock several times to warm up the fluid. Check the gearbox for leaks.
-Adjust the front toe.
-Check the steering wheel spoke angle. Adjust by turning the right and left tie-rods equally, if necessary.
6hours is a bargain IMO and 350$ for a rebuilt rack is ppeanuts. List on a rebuilt Naval unit is 816$ for a 2006 TL...Helms manual steps to remove and install steering rack on 2nd gen Acura CL V6 (basically same as TL)
Note these items during removal:
-Use solvent and a brush, wash any oil and dirt off of the valve body unit its lines, and the end of the gearbox. Blow dry with compressed air.
-Be sure to remove the steering wheel before disconnecting the steering joint. Damage to the cable reel can occur.
1) Drain the power steering fluid.
2) Raise and support the vehicle.
3) Remove the front wheels.
4) Remove the driver's airbag assembly.
5) Remove the steering wheel.
6) Remove the steering joint cover.
7) Remove the steering joint bolts, disconnect the steering joint by moving the steering joint toward the column.
8) Remove the cotter pin from the 10mm nut and loosen the nut.
9) Separate the tie-rod ball joint and knuckle.
10) Grasp the right tie-rod and pull the rack all the way to the right, then remove the right and left tie-rod ends, and locknuts.
11) Remove the exhaust pipe and mounting bracket.
12) Disconnect the A/T shift cable from the transmission.
13) Loosen the 14mm flare nut, and disconnect the pump outlet hose.
14) Loosen the 17mm flare nut, and remove the return line.
15) After disconnecting the hoses and lines, plug or seal them with a piece of tape to prevent foreign materials from entering.
Note: Do not loosen the cylinder line between the valve body unit and cylinder.
16) Remove the stiffener plates, then remove the right mounting brackets and the cushion.
17 #7 Note these items during removal:
-Use solvent and a brush, wash any oil and dirt off of the valve body unit its lines, and the end of the gearbox. Blow dry with compressed air.
-Be sure to remove the steering wheel before disconnecting the steering joint. Damage to the cable reel can occur.
1) Drain the power steering fluid.
2) Raise and support the vehicle.
3) Remove the front wheels.
4) Remove the driver's airbag assembly.
5) Remove the steering wheel.
6) Remove the steering joint cover.
7) Remove the steering joint bolts, disconnect the steering joint by moving the steering joint toward the column.
8) Remove the cotter pin from the 10mm nut and loosen the nut.
9) Separate the tie-rod ball joint and knuckle.
10) Grasp the right tie-rod and pull the rack all the way to the right, then remove the right and left tie-rod ends, and locknuts.
11) Remove the exhaust pipe and mounting bracket.
12) Disconnect the A/T shift cable from the transmission.
13) Loosen the 14mm flare nut, and disconnect the pump outlet hose.
14) Loosen the 17mm flare nut, and remove the return line.
15) After disconnecting the hoses and lines, plug or seal them with a piece of tape to prevent foreign materials from entering.
Note: Do not loosen the cylinder line between the valve body unit and cylinder.
16) Remove the stiffener plates, then remove the right mounting brackets and the cushion.
17) Pull the steering gearbox down until the pinion shaft clears the bulkhead, and remove the pinion shaft grommet from the top of the valve body unit
18) Move the steering gearbox to the passenger's side until the driver's side rack end rests on the end of the rear beam.
19) To get the driver's side rack end around the rear beam, push up and back on the passenger's sCLe rack end, then pull down on the driver's side of the steering gearbox.
Installation
1) Before installing the gearbox, slide the rack all the way to the right.
2) Pass the passenger's side of the steering gearbox above and through the passenger's side of the rear beam. Be careful not to bend or damage the power steering lines and cylinder lines when installing the gearbox.
3) Raise the driver's side of the steering gearbox above and through the driver's side of the rear beam. Then insert the pinion shaft up through the bulkhead.
4) Install the pinion shaft grommet. Align the slot in the pinion shaft grommet with the lug portion on the valve housing.
5) Install the mounting cushion on the steering gearbox.
6) Install the mounting brackets over the mounting cushion, then install the two gearbox mounting bolts.
7) Install the stiffener plates with the two gearbox monting bolts and six stiffener plate attaching bolts. Install the bolts loosely first, then tighten them securely.
8) Center the steering rack within its stroke.
9) Install the steering joint, and reconnect the steering shaft and pinion shaft. Make sure the steering joint is connected as follows:
-Insert the upper end of the steering joint onto the steering shaft (line up the bolt hole with the flat portion of the shaft).
Slip the lower end of the steering joint onto the pinion shaft (line up the bolt hole with the groove around the shaft), and loosely install the lower joint bolt. Be sure that the lower joint bolt is securely in the groove in the pinion shaft.
-Pull on the steering joint to make sure that the steering joint is fully seated. Then install the upper joint and tighten it.
10) Center the cable reel by first rotating it clockwise until it stops. Then rotate it counterclockwise (about two and half turns) until the arrow mark on the label points straight up. Reinstall the steering wheel.
11) Install the steering joint cover with the clamps and clips.
12) Connect the return line and feed line to the valve body. After connecting the fluid lines, make sure that there is no interference between the lines and other parts.
13) Thread the right and left tie-rod ends and locknut onto the rack an equal number of turns.
14) Reconnect tie-rod ends to the steering knuckles.
15) Install new cotter pins.
16) Connect the A/T shift cable to the transmission.
17) Install the exhaust pipe and mounting bracket.
18) Install front wheels.
19) Fill the system with PS fluid, and bleed air from the system.
20) After installation, perform the following checks:
-Start the engine, allow it to idle, and turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock several times to warm up the fluid. Check the gearbox for leaks.
-Adjust the front toe.
-Check the steering wheel spoke angle. Adjust by turning the right and left tie-rods equally, if necessary.
Boy you really are the stereotypical G35 owner. Read the following and tell me 6 hours is a ripoff
Helms manual steps to remove and install steering rack on 2nd gen Acura CL V6 (basically same as TL)
Note these items during removal:
-Use solvent and a brush, wash any oil and dirt off of the valve body unit its lines, and the end of the gearbox. Blow dry with compressed air.
-Be sure to remove the steering wheel before disconnecting the steering joint. Damage to the cable reel can occur.
1) Drain the power steering fluid.
2) Raise and support the vehicle.
3) Remove the front wheels.
4) Remove the driver's airbag assembly.
5) Remove the steering wheel.
6) Remove the steering joint cover.
7) Remove the steering joint bolts, disconnect the steering joint by moving the steering joint toward the column.
8) Remove the cotter pin from the 10mm nut and loosen the nut.
9) Separate the tie-rod ball joint and knuckle.
10) Grasp the right tie-rod and pull the rack all the way to the right, then remove the right and left tie-rod ends, and locknuts.
11) Remove the exhaust pipe and mounting bracket.
12) Disconnect the A/T shift cable from the transmission.
13) Loosen the 14mm flare nut, and disconnect the pump outlet hose.
14) Loosen the 17mm flare nut, and remove the return line.
15) After disconnecting the hoses and lines, plug or seal them with a piece of tape to prevent foreign materials from entering.
Note: Do not loosen the cylinder line between the valve body unit and cylinder.
16) Remove the stiffener plates, then remove the right mounting brackets and the cushion.
17 #7 Note these items during removal:
-Use solvent and a brush, wash any oil and dirt off of the valve body unit its lines, and the end of the gearbox. Blow dry with compressed air.
-Be sure to remove the steering wheel before disconnecting the steering joint. Damage to the cable reel can occur.
1) Drain the power steering fluid.
2) Raise and support the vehicle.
3) Remove the front wheels.
4) Remove the driver's airbag assembly.
5) Remove the steering wheel.
6) Remove the steering joint cover.
7) Remove the steering joint bolts, disconnect the steering joint by moving the steering joint toward the column.
8) Remove the cotter pin from the 10mm nut and loosen the nut.
9) Separate the tie-rod ball joint and knuckle.
10) Grasp the right tie-rod and pull the rack all the way to the right, then remove the right and left tie-rod ends, and locknuts.
11) Remove the exhaust pipe and mounting bracket.
12) Disconnect the A/T shift cable from the transmission.
13) Loosen the 14mm flare nut, and disconnect the pump outlet hose.
14) Loosen the 17mm flare nut, and remove the return line.
15) After disconnecting the hoses and lines, plug or seal them with a piece of tape to prevent foreign materials from entering.
Note: Do not loosen the cylinder line between the valve body unit and cylinder.
16) Remove the stiffener plates, then remove the right mounting brackets and the cushion.
17) Pull the steering gearbox down until the pinion shaft clears the bulkhead, and remove the pinion shaft grommet from the top of the valve body unit
18) Move the steering gearbox to the passenger's side until the driver's side rack end rests on the end of the rear beam.
19) To get the driver's side rack end around the rear beam, push up and back on the passenger's sCLe rack end, then pull down on the driver's side of the steering gearbox.
Installation
1) Before installing the gearbox, slide the rack all the way to the right.
2) Pass the passenger's side of the steering gearbox above and through the passenger's side of the rear beam. Be careful not to bend or damage the power steering lines and cylinder lines when installing the gearbox.
3) Raise the driver's side of the steering gearbox above and through the driver's side of the rear beam. Then insert the pinion shaft up through the bulkhead.
4) Install the pinion shaft grommet. Align the slot in the pinion shaft grommet with the lug portion on the valve housing.
5) Install the mounting cushion on the steering gearbox.
6) Install the mounting brackets over the mounting cushion, then install the two gearbox mounting bolts.
7) Install the stiffener plates with the two gearbox monting bolts and six stiffener plate attaching bolts. Install the bolts loosely first, then tighten them securely.
8) Center the steering rack within its stroke.
9) Install the steering joint, and reconnect the steering shaft and pinion shaft. Make sure the steering joint is connected as follows:
-Insert the upper end of the steering joint onto the steering shaft (line up the bolt hole with the flat portion of the shaft).
Slip the lower end of the steering joint onto the pinion shaft (line up the bolt hole with the groove around the shaft), and loosely install the lower joint bolt. Be sure that the lower joint bolt is securely in the groove in the pinion shaft.
-Pull on the steering joint to make sure that the steering joint is fully seated. Then install the upper joint and tighten it.
10) Center the cable reel by first rotating it clockwise until it stops. Then rotate it counterclockwise (about two and half turns) until the arrow mark on the label points straight up. Reinstall the steering wheel.
11) Install the steering joint cover with the clamps and clips.
12) Connect the return line and feed line to the valve body. After connecting the fluid lines, make sure that there is no interference between the lines and other parts.
13) Thread the right and left tie-rod ends and locknut onto the rack an equal number of turns.
14) Reconnect tie-rod ends to the steering knuckles.
15) Install new cotter pins.
16) Connect the A/T shift cable to the transmission.
17) Install the exhaust pipe and mounting bracket.
18) Install front wheels.
19) Fill the system with PS fluid, and bleed air from the system.
20) After installation, perform the following checks:
-Start the engine, allow it to idle, and turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock several times to warm up the fluid. Check the gearbox for leaks.
-Adjust the front toe.
-Check the steering wheel spoke angle. Adjust by turning the right and left tie-rods equally, if necessary.
TL;DR
friend of mine replaced it on his 2003 g35 a few years back. Took the mech 4 hours and the rack and pinion cost 350$ (bought on the internet). His mech told him that he could have rebuilt it for a lot less then 350$.
Good for you and your friend. Now we can back to the topic, which is an Acura TL, which, last time i checked, does not have the same steering rack or replacement procedure as your douche G35.
As if changing a steering rack was a complete different story on an acura TL ... scrub.
mig0s
Well-known member
So i lifted my car and noticed my driver side inner tie rod is pretty much shot and the boot is bad too. The driver side is oily and i can tell that the power steering fluid has been leaking from there. Do you guys thinking if i change the inner tie rod would stop the leak or i really have to change the whole rack and pinion?
Broody
Well-known member
I'd like to know since when is PS fluid flowing through tie rods...
Maybe that the PS system is leaking near the tie rods but these are just some metal rod to make a connexion, no fluids involved.
Maybe that you are talking about your CV joint boots (the big boots near the wheels) being shot?
You can have a look there for a fairly priced rebuild
http://www.precision-rebuilders.com/
Maybe that the PS system is leaking near the tie rods but these are just some metal rod to make a connexion, no fluids involved.
Maybe that you are talking about your CV joint boots (the big boots near the wheels) being shot?
You can have a look there for a fairly priced rebuild
http://www.precision-rebuilders.com/