The Short History of an Old BMW (2002 project)

Day ~56 – 58 About 3 days of work, excluding waiting for glue to dry.


Trim & Finishers

I riveted up some new b-pillar finishers, along with the old rear window finishers. I also installed some new belt line trim pieces, just waiting on 2 new fasteners because the old ones were stripped. I put in the new rear window seals as well (after the headliner). Installing the rear window vent seal wasn’t straight forward at first but after the first 5 mins I figured it out, the passenger window went much quicker than the first one. I started at the corner kink (even though people say to start at the bottom front), I think it was the better decision since trimming was required, although the bottom didn’t need much, maybe more “shaping” than trimming.




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Front Vent & Driver Windows

I utilized Kosta one evening (before soccer) to aid with the installation of the front vent and door windows. It would definitely have been very hard to try that on my own, you need a 2nd set of hands to lower the window and hold it up while bolting stuff in. Will need to do a lot of adjustment on this after putting the seals in.


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Heater Box

I disassembled the heater box, cleaned everything all up and let a radiator cleaning solution sit in the heater core for a few days before reassembling it all. I had to use some epoxy to fix a couple of small cracks which occurred during the 2002 tear down. Put the cables back in

Before


I didn’t even know the fan blades were silver :p

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New Headliner

My new headliner was sitting in an unopened box since February 2015, I obviously was not great at gauging the schedule of my project. The headliner I decided to go with is the “black suede type” from www.dtechparts.com. I wanted black but wasn’t too keen on vinyl.

Quick product review 4/5: The material does not feel like suede but I don’t care about that, it’s more of like a micro fiber material. It has a foam backing which makes covering the C-Pillar “nicer.” One of the bow “hoops” might have been slightly off which makes the seam a little more pronounced but I’m just being critical. I’m very happy and would definitely recommend it to others.​

Before the installation I went through ClayW’s BMW2002FAQ article a few times. I thought it was going to be difficult to get it right but it wasn’t, it’s just time consuming.



Unfortunately the binder clips I “borrowed” from the office were not enough to cover as much as necessary so I resorted to other clamps I had and clothes pins. I also requested some extra material to cover the sun visors, I’ll eventually get to that.



Final Product
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New A-Pillar Vinyl

The vinyl I removed from the A and B pillars looked a little faded so I decided to replace it with some new vinyl. Had I thought about it before, I would have asked for more “black suede type” material to do the pillars (at least the A-pillars), I think it would have been nicer than the black vinyl. I basically installed the vinyl the same way I did the headliner, except I added some of the sound deadening foam as a backing to give it a nicer shape (replacing the old foam).








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Sun Visors

I reupholstered the old sun visors with the same fabric as the headliner. I cut open the old sun visor and glued on the new fabric, I put a stitch in by hand, originally I only wanted to put a couple of stitches to hold it but I then got out of hand.

I’m not so sure I like it, for 1 I think it might be too “matchy-matchy” with the headliner in the same material, and also I don’t like the seam I stiched by hand.

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Dash

I slid the dash right in and started connecting stuff. Heater controls and other wiring, then I noticed I had to move some wires around a bit to do a cleaner job. I will be adding the wideband digital display in the “fasten seat belt” dash display area later. It’s finally starting to feel like an interior :eek:


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Does anyone have an advance timing light and can help with setting the timing of the '02? I'm in Dorval.

Beer and good times available.
 
Day ~59 – 62 About 4 days of work

Boring stuff

Tidied up some more wiring and got things sorted out so that the battery was ready to be connected. I also installed the b-pillar gaskets and rear windows, with freshly painted window brackets… boooooring.

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Engine/Transmission/Front Sub-Frame Reunion

I didn’t want to put the motor back in only to find out it was leaking from the oil pan because of the cork seal. So, I decided to change the cork seal for the paper version (with some RTV gasket sealant) as recommended by some members (BMW2002FAQ). I installed the oil temperature sender in the pan and popped in some new spark plugs.



The motor was ready to be reunited with the transmission, front sub-frame and ultimately the chassis. I built a dolly for the sub frame to sit on, jacked that up to the motor (while the motor was still on the stand). I secured the motor to the sub-frame, then slowly separated and lowered it away from the engine stand.



Once on the Floor, I reattached the struts, reinstalled the clutch and torqued up the transmission bolts. It was time to wait for backup (Kosta was coming to help).





We jacked up the car nice and high and at first the plywood dolly made rolling the sub-frame/motor under the chassis easy… until it we dropped the car and needed to lift the frame at different angles to secure the sub-frame, it was a bitch.



It took long but we got it in only slightly damaging the paint in a very small section of the firewall. I missed supper at my parents and Kosta was late to meet up with his wife.

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Small things:


- Installed new Track Rod (center tie rod)

- Reinstalled brakes with CA Tuned stainless lines



- Remounted the wheels. Dropped it down to make work easier.



- Installed the VDO oil pressure sender using the bav-auto adapter.

- Re-installed fuel pressure regulator



- Installed throttle cable

- Re-installed radiator

- Installed Glow Shift radiator hose adapter for VDO coolant temperature sender. Nifty inexpensive solution.



-Installed some new vinyl in the nook of the parcel shelf.



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Contact! (2016-08-05)

The first start of the engine (since Jan 2015). Kosta was over again to lend a hand provide moral support and be greek.

At first there were some fuel leaks from the carbs, then there were some fuel leaks with the carbs :p. The leaks were associated to the new redline gaskets (around the fuel line inlet) which seem to be thinner in outside diameter than the previous ones. In the end I put back the old ones.

Then the timing was too off. I have since done more research on timing and have ordered a advance timing light.

In the end it took about 25-30 cranks to get it running.

Shimmy Shakes (downpipe only)

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A/F Wideband Digital Display

Installed the ASPX Wideband Digital display in the "fasten seat belts” box (I got the idea from Eurotrash (BMW2002FAQ)). The display will be controlled by a switch in the dash console, so it doesn’t always have to be on. I like the idea of hiding the gauge, I put together a montage of photos to show others who might want to try it.



I test fitted where to install the O2 sensor, there wasn’t really any great location… Now I need to take the down-pipe somewhere to have the bung welded in​


...next up: Double check that everything (electrical) is functioning correctly + timing + O2 bung in downpipe
 
wow where the fuck was i looking all this time ?!!! First time i notice this thread poppin ! That's one nice build sir ! Keep it up, i'm now subscribed :)
 
The Final Summer Push

Day ~63 – 68

I’m trying to get a whole bunch of things done, so that I can drive this car before winter comes and as you may know, it comes pretty quick around here.

Weather Stripping/Seals

- Driver/Passenger Doors Seals (Uro)
I had read some negative reviews about the Uro door seals but I also read that some weren’t happy with the OEM version. Given the big price difference, I cheaped out and went with the Uro door seals. Installing the door seals, is a slight bitch. Jamming it in to the aluminium bracket channel isn’t fun and then removing it to add weather stripping adhesive is even less fun. When sticking the trim to the frame curvatures (where there is no channel), it’s not as it does not want to stay in place.



Following the window adjustment, here are my issues with the URO door seals L




- Trunk Seal (OEM)
Much easier than the door seals, I simply stretched it out in to place and glued it in with some binder clips.



- Front & Back Windshields (OEM)
As with the headliner install, I followed ClayW’s instructions (BMW2002FAQ) for installation. Installing the glass with the seal was surprisingly easy, installing the lock-strip was a little more difficult but with the help of a lock-strip tool it wasn’t that bad.

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Interior Finishing

- B-Pillar Trim
I cut and glued in some new vinyl trim (fabric) on the B-pillars. Similar to what I did on the A-pillars but without a foam backing.



- Door Cards (Rear)
Cleaned them up, popped in new clips and installed them.



- Carpet
I purchased a carpet from Esty way back in Feb of 2015, it was finally time to install it. I used Myrtle’s instructions (BMW2002FAQ). It went in pretty easy, but like most things it was time consuming. About the carpet, I don’t like the way the 2 front pieces (driver/passenger “mats”) sit, they have pleats… but Esty does not recommend any additional insulation/sound deadening below the carpet so maybe the additional ½” - ¾“ made the difference. I think the pleats might ease out with some heat/time.



- Handbrake Bearing Upgrade
Installed the handbrake bearing upgrade I purchased from williamggruff (BMW2002FAQ), seems like a big improvement for little effort & money.



- Seat Belts
They functioned properly, so I simply washed them with some liquid laundry detergent and hung them out to dry before re-installing them


- Speakers
The front speakers were originally in custom pods when the foot rest would normally be, I didn’t like that… so I mounted them under the dash. I’ll see how that works out, and might change it in the future but for now, out of sight out of mind.



- Seats/Steering
Re-Installed the Moto-Lite wood wheel on the weekend… then re-installed the lovely E21 Reccaro seats from Aardvark Racing, last night. Now I have somewhere to sit while bleeding the brakes.

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Exterior Trim

- Cleaned and installed the lower (knee) trim. I used Meguir’s plastic cleaner followed by the polish. They came out pretty good.
- Installed the door window finishers.
- 1 of the clips was aftermarket and didn’t really hold the trim, so being an impatient SOB, I rigged up a new clip with some scrap aluminium, a bolt and some steel weld.




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Exhaust / Wideband

- I went to a local muffler shop (Federal Muffler) and had a bung installed for the O2 sensor. I sanded it, and painted it with some VHT exhaust paint. Upon installation, I noticed the fit was tighter than I expected (transmission support bar), so I pulled that off and modified it slightly for more clearance



- I did the ASPX O2 sensor calibration and waiting to fire it up and see what’s what.​

Trunk
The trunk and the hood were still at the paint shop, unfortunately the hood won’t fit in my XC60 but the trunk lid did.



Popped the trunk on, it still needs some alignment but at least it’s out of the way.

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Up next…


  • Take 2 at bleeding brakes, 1 of the fittings is leaking, seems like it’s not seating properly L, nothings ever easy with this piece of junk.
  • Timing & Carb adjustment. I ordered a Innova advanced timing light but before trying that out, I want to rig up a bracket for the throttle return spring.
  • Building a new center console. To accommodate the new gauges & switches.
  • and some other stuff I can't think of right now.

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Beaucoup d'infos dans ton thread!

Thumbs up pour la quantité et qualité d'information que tu met!

Et beau travail!
 
Comme plusieurs surement, je commente pas, mais je peux t'assurer que je lis ton thread depuis le jour 1! J'ai voulu il y a quelques années acheter une 2002 et la remonter comme tu le fais donc je te lève mon chapeau!

Lâche pas et continue de détailler !
 
Je viens de découvrir ce thread et c'est fou tout le travail que tu as mis sur cette voiture. C'est vraiment nice la maniere que tu documente ton thread. J'imagine le sourire que tu va avoir lors de la première ride une fois que la voiture va etre finie. Lache pas la patate
 
merci beaucoup tout le monde!

These words are very encouraging, surtout quand je poigne des problèmes (et ca arrive souvent), I just don't document them as much because they don't make for good reading :p

PS: i love the word "poigne," it could be used anywhere.
 
Excellent projet très bien présenté et suivi assidûment.

Bonne chance pour la sortir avant la neige.

Pierre
2002ti 1969
 
Day ~69er - 76 - Winter is coming.

Braking my heart

It seems that I have 2 leaking fittings on the front calipers, I think the bleeders aren’t seating properly. I managed to stop the leaks but it’s not a permanent fix. I believe I have Tii brakes which were spaced for vented rotors. I might need to get some professional help with those but I will leave that to next year because winter is coming. I’ll try buying some new quality bleeder fittings first.​


Timing ‘n’ Tuning

I’ve been messing around with my timing light and playing with the adjustment to the Webers. I’ve been getting a lot of helpful advice from the boys on BMW2002FAQ. It’s difficult for me, the timing numbers I’ve found don’t seem to work well with the motor. I’ve changed the distributor cap and rotor, plus ordered some new spark plug wires. My DCOEs are not a matched set (came with car), so things are extra difficult and I’m weighing-out some options. Every time I take a step forward something pushes me at minimum 1 step back, it’s very frustrating.
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Interior stuff

The Center Console from Hell.

The vinyl on the sides of the center console was thin and also wrinkly, I decided I was going to recover it with some fresh vinyl. I had just enough vinyl left over to recover both sides of the center console.

Setback 1
Unfortunately I ended up having to recover the both sides a second time because as it turned out I didn’t pull the fabric far enough on the backside where the center console face sits (containing radio, gauges, etc), thus staples and slits in the vinyl would be visible in the front. I discovered this during the test fit, so I went to purchase some more vinyl, un-stapled it all and redid it.


Before:


After:


I used some thin MDF, and reinforced it with a 2nd layer in a few areas. The reason I went with thin MDF was because I needed a bend and MDF is pretty easy to work with.

For those who want to attempt something similar, here’s a collage of photos, I also wrote out some of the steps I did below the image.




- Photo 1: I traced out the shape of the center console on the MDF, including the cut-outs for the 3 VDO gauges and the Stereo.

- Photo 2: I cut those out with the jigsaw.

- I then plotted the toggle switches and hazard switch.
o For the toggle switches, I found them to be too pronounced, they would stick out more than I liked (from console face). So, instead of cutting a small hole to secure the switch (with the threaded plastic nut), I cut the silhouette of the full switch. The plan was to glue a 2nd piece of MDF behind the face where the switched would be secured with the plastic nut. This would recess the switches a little.

- Photo 3: I cut 3 pieces of MDF to the shape of the bend I needed.
o I used a small amount of hot water on a rag to lightly moisten the console MDF where the bend was needed.
o I bent the console MDF a little by hand, then clamped the it to 3 pieces I cut with some glue to secure the shape.

- Photo 4: I added to pieces to extend the sides of the console, made a tray for the stereo to rest and added the toggle switch backing piece.

- Photo 5: I applied and sanded a light coat of body filler to fix any imperfections and provide a smooth surface.

- Photo 6: I applied 3 light coats of satin black spray paint.

- Photo 7: I applied 3 coats of matte clear coat

Setback 2
- Photo 8: The console was finished and ready for another test fit but I managed to knock it off my workbench. Most of the damage was at the top left.
o I did not want to start from scratch, so I repaired the gauge using some MDF glue and then more body filler.

Setback 3
- Photo 9: I applied 2 coats of satin black, there wasn’t much paint left in the can. Unfortunately the nozzle sprayed out some globs of paint and I also ended up with a nice drip mark.
o I sanded the drip mark and other imperfections with a fine grit paper.

Setback 4
- Photo 10: I applied 3 light coats of matte clear coat and for some reason there was a chemical reaction which made cracks throughout.

- Photo 11: Sanded the paint cracks away, applied 3 more light coats of clear coat and wet sanded the few imperfections.

- Photo 12: Test fitted the everything in the completed center console.

Not in collage:

Setback 5
o The wires for the switches were too short to be able to wire up it up before positioning it, needed a couple of inches of play, went out to buy a wiring harness for the switch and decided to do the same for the gauges.



o Used double sided tape under the stereo and installed an L-bracket behind the stereo to hold it in place.

o Pre-drilled 6 holes (3 per side) to hold the center face in place through the vinyl sides.

o Installed a aluminium bracket across the top of the console which with a hole to secure the center console to the dash (using an existing u-clip).

Setback 6
o Installed an L-bracket in front of shiter to secure console to the tunnel with a self tapping screw. The self tapping screw pulled a tread from the new carpet and there is now a thin line missing loops in the carpet (right in front of shifter).
- I think I will make some kind of vinyl cover for this area and try to make it look like it should be there.


Final product

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Parcel Shelf

I made a new parcel shelf cover out of some ¼ MDF with black vinyl. I used the old piece as a template, then cut out place for the speakers. I cut the full outline of the speakers, so that the speaker cover would be recessed and not sitting on top of the parcel shelf, thus less pronounced.


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Refreshing the Door Card backings

The old door cards weren’t in the best condition, especially the driver side so I decided to make some new door cards out of ¼ plywood.


Original Driver side old door card.



I removed the door card cover carefully and used it as a template, I stencilled all the holes/shapes on the new plywood. I noticed some of the holes aren’t used/necessary, so I didn’t plan on cutting those out.


Using a jig saw and hole saw, I cut out the shape and pieces.


The plywood is slightly thicker than the stock cardboard so the door card clips do not fit well. I found a trick, by inserting a screwdriver in the hole at an angle, I apply pressure to the back and front (of the plywood) simultaneously and twist the screwdriver 360’. This removes the top veneer of the birch plywood. It’s not pretty but it’s effective.


I test fitted the door card to the door, everything lined up well.


I reattached the top portion of the door card skin by bending the metal tabs back out. I used a flat head screw driver with a hammer.


I sprayed some 3m Super 77 spray on the plywood and door card skin for good measure, then I stapled the skin to the back of the door card.
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Door Card Install

I had previously adjusted both the driver and passenger windows it was annoying and time consuming. Now before installing the door cards, I needed to make sure I had the windows adjustment as best as possible, I spent about another 30 mins on the passenger window over the long weekend (Canadian thanksgiving). Once I finished, I sprayed some lithium grease all over to lubricate the mechanism and protect against rust on the inner door. Now I could install the vapour barrier and door card. We had some left over polyethylene vapour barrier from construction so that was what I planned on using.

Steps.
- Cut vapour barrier to size/shape, test fit it. Temporarily fix it in place at the top, then flip the bottom up to apply an adhesive. Flip it back down apply a little pressure so the adhesive contacts to vapour barrier (note: I also used a few small pieces of tuck tape).
- To install the door card in place, I attached a long piece of masking tape to the door-lock pin and fished it through the hole, if you don’t do this, it will be difficult to get the door-lock pin through the opening. Push card down to clip it to the top of the door, I also used a hammer with a piece of 2x4 with some light taps to push the front portion down.
- Put the 2 springs over the window winder and vent window knob. Pop the door clips in, some require more pressure than others.
- Install the window winder and vent window knob with plastic washer. Install door arm rest and door handle.​



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Grills

Before re-installed the front grills, I covered the 2 hood bracket support ‘bar’s with some black (sticker) vinyl. These are generally visible when the grill is installed, so you’d see a 2 bright red bars behind the grill. I also used megiuars ultimate black on the grills.

Here’s a before and after, not much to see here.



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1st Drive around the block.

Frustrated with how long everything is taking in terms of the tuning, I messed around with the timing and carburetors some more on Saturday and felt like I got the motor to a point where I felt a (mini) drive was in order, equipped with a couple of screw drivers, wrenches and a fire extinguisher, I took the car around the block a couple of times. Everything went well, and the car felt smoother than before the I started this project, I was expecting a rougher ride due to the urethane bushings and all.



the red colour is a bit off in this photo


Short anticlimactic video from Sunday.
 
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