engine oil flush .. BS or worthy???

ruffrolla

ruffrolla

New member
good morning everyone ..
so i recently bought a car and when i did the first oil change i feel as though the previous owner left the oil in there for a long time.. now when i changed the oil it was dark as night, ive read mixed reports saying a engine oil flush is dangerous for the engine and ive read alot saying after the flush engine stopped knocking ect... now im not looking to get the engine back to day 1 but i just want to flush out all the old deposits .. anyone on here have reccomendations or advice to give ?? also would it matter if car is TURBO
 
What you can do is research which oil has the highest detergent amount use that in your engine and flush it out every 2000km or less do this 2-3 times if you judge the engine is that bad. If not just use good oil and change at regula intervals.
 
^^^Yup I would second that way the engine will clean itself with normal short interval oil changes also note the thickness of it coming out or if its fluid and close to the amount it originally contains comes out, this way you know its not staying in there clumped up
 
thats the thing it was very thick so im thinking its gunked up in there , i do always change my oil at ever 5k full synthetic but there is somthing telling me if i just go ahead and change the oil again it will contaminate the oil right away .. and to do an oil change every 2 3 k will be alot more $$$ than a quick engine flush¸
 
Just change the oil again in a few thousand kilometers with liqui moly

Also, don't load the turbo unecessarily right before shutting the motor off
 
Engine flush all the way. The benefits have been noted time and time again.

1- Add flush additive to engine oil
2- Run engine at 2,000 rpm for 10 minutes (no load)
3- Change oil with very inexpensive oil (filter too)
4- Run engine again 2,000 rpm for 10 minutes (loaded/ no load, doesn't matter)
5- Change oil with Motul 8100 XClean C3

Never worry about sludge again. I do it every spring, regardless of mileage done.
When I purchased my bimmer 4 years ago, it drank 2L/5,000 kms, unacceptable.

I performed a very aggressive flush sequence and have been enjoying not adding a drop in 10,000 kms oil changes ever since.

Ran a test to prove Motul 8100 is THE oil to use. Between September 2014 and June 2015, I did 30,000 kms on Motul 8100 XClean C3 in 5w40, just checking my oil bi weekly.
Yes the oil was burnt, but no shavings/sediment in it when removed, and it was only about 750ml low on oil when removed. I'm thoroughly impressed, but won't be doing that on a regular basis (even though BMW suggests 20K).

Obviously flushed it thoroughly following that test, then removed valve cover and ZERO sludge/sediment.

Moral:
1- Flush additives work wonders if used properly
2- Use the best oil you can afford
3- Regular maintenance trumps all
 
best beat je ferais analyser l'huile pour savoir exactement ce qui se passe.

Ca pourrais te dire c'est quoi !

Parfois les voiture turbo ''salissent'' leurs huile pas mal plus que les voiture atmosphérique.

Fais juste regardé l'huile d'un moteur diézel ! Outch ... pourtant l'huile est parfaite et fais sont travail quand meme.
 
Mon expérience avec un engine flush se résume à un gaspillage d'argent. On me l'a recommandé car mon huile était trop noire et que c'était pas bon. Ok fine, allez-y avec un flush. J'assiste à toute l'opération qui consiste à effectuer une vidange, remettre de l'huile et faire tourner le moteur pour procéder à une autre vidange. Résultat, check man ton huile est claire.

3 mois plus tard je retourne pour ma vidange et on me lancer le même discourt.

J'en conclus que c'est surement pas mauvais de faire un engine flush mais personnellement je pense que c'est de l'argent gaspillé.
 
drift.mechanic said:
Engine flush all the way. The benefits have been noted time and time again.

1- Add flush additive to engine oil
2- Run engine at 2,000 rpm for 10 minutes (no load)
3- Change oil with very inexpensive oil (filter too)
4- Run engine again 2,000 rpm for 10 minutes (loaded/ no load, doesn't matter)
5- Change oil with Motul 8100 XClean C3

Never worry about sludge again. I do it every spring, regardless of mileage done.
When I purchased my bimmer 4 years ago, it drank 2L/5,000 kms, unacceptable.

I performed a very aggressive flush sequence and have been enjoying not adding a drop in 10,000 kms oil changes ever since.

Ran a test to prove Motul 8100 is THE oil to use. Between September 2014 and June 2015, I did 30,000 kms on Motul 8100 XClean C3 in 5w40, just checking my oil bi weekly.
Yes the oil was burnt, but no shavings/sediment in it when removed, and it was only about 750ml low on oil when removed. I'm thoroughly impressed, but won't be doing that on a regular basis (even though BMW suggests 20K).

Obviously flushed it thoroughly following that test, then removed valve cover and ZERO sludge/sediment.

Moral:
1- Flush additives work wonders if used properly
2- Use the best oil you can afford
3- Regular maintenance trumps all
Click to expand...

thank you good sir for the proper information .. i will do that and i will flush with cheap oil afterwards and then add royal purple or valvoline r1 ....
 
Seafoam is tits to clean up gunked up engines.... worked like a charm everytime I used it. Not so sure about the turbo part if it won't mess up anything doe.
But gregster is on to something.
 
Twon said:
Mon expérience avec un engine flush se résume à un gaspillage d'argent. On me l'a recommandé car mon huile était trop noire et que c'était pas bon. Ok fine, allez-y avec un flush. J'assiste à toute l'opération qui consiste à effectuer une vidange, remettre de l'huile et faire tourner le moteur pour procéder à une autre vidange. Résultat, check man ton huile est claire.

3 mois plus tard je retourne pour ma vidange et on me lancer le même discourt.

J'en conclus que c'est surement pas mauvais de faire un engine flush mais personnellement je pense que c'est de l'argent gaspillé.
Click to expand...

je suis daccord avec ca mais pour moi cest comme une affaire mentale je crois hahaha non srs je veut juste enlever tout lhuile ke le gars avait mit et je fait le switch de huile regulier au synthetic donc cest meme reccomender par subaru ... ma volvo nas pas besoin de flush ... jai toute ouvert le casing ect elle est super prope ... ``built not bought``
 
Bruce said:
Seafoam is tits to clean up gunked up engines.... worked like a charm everytime I used it. Not so sure about the turbo part if it won't mess up anything doe.
But gregster is on to something.
Click to expand...

yes but seafoam is more for the throttle body and cylinders no ? i need the whole oil system flushed .. ive used seafoam in my fuel system and it worked like a charm .. and my plugs were not fouled and i add seafoam every year to my 60hp outboard on my fishing boat !
 
ruffrolla said:
yes but seafoam is more for the throttle body and cylinders no ? i need the whole oil system flushed .. ive used seafoam in my fuel system and it worked like a charm .. and my plugs were not fouled and i add seafoam every year to my 60hp outboard on my fishing boat !
Click to expand...

I already poured half a bottle in the engine head on my old motronic 8v Golf.
Gave it a good beating. Smoked for a couple KM's.
Changed the oil. Thicker than thick in the drain pain.
Replaced engine oil. No more lifter noise. Pleasantlysurprised.gif
 
ruffrolla said:
thats the thing it was very thick so im thinking its gunked up in there , i do always change my oil at ever 5k full synthetic but there is somthing telling me if i just go ahead and change the oil again it will contaminate the oil right away .. and to do an oil change every 2 3 k will be alot more $$$ than a quick engine flush¸
Click to expand...

CAREFUL.

Does this used car have a warranty? Thick oil MAY be an indicator that the seller "doctored" the oil thickness to MASK issues like oil consumption, leaks, burning oil, etc.

Whenever I buy a used car, on my checklist is to check the oil "thickness."

You do what you want but BEWARE.
 
Just for ref.. I've seen cara with 200k plus that looked new inside on conventional oil. It's a matter of how you drive / when you change it.

Synthetic I suggest twice a year or every 10-12k
 
lord_galathon said:
CAREFUL.

Does this used car have a warranty? Thick oil MAY be an indicator that the seller "doctored" the oil thickness to MASK issues like oil consumption, leaks, burning oil, etc.

Whenever I buy a used car, on my checklist is to check the oil "thickness."

You do what you want but BEWARE.
Click to expand...

i know thick oil due to additives ... i had a leaky head gasket in a old volvo of mine.
i just really want to give myself peace of mind on if its safe or not
 
Gregster said:
Just for ref.. I've seen cara with 200k plus that looked new inside on conventional oil. It's a matter of how you drive / when you change it.

Synthetic I suggest twice a year or every 10-12k
Click to expand...

100% agree with you , ive seen a camry taxi with 760,000km and it ran smooth like butter
its all about the simple jobs that can keep our babies running
 
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