Audi B5 1.8T ... Slooww .. but whyyy ?!
- Thread starter The Overclocker
- Start date
The Overclocker
New member
ok parfait, demain je vais rouler sent filtre a air pour voir la difference dans le mass air pis apres je vais de plogger le mass air pour voir la diferance
fait moi signe si ya d'autre chose que tu pence que je pourais tester
Uncle Helmut
New member
Pancake valve will have a bit of air going through on boost because it has a small hole. If it's shot, oil will be pissing out everywhere under boost.
The Overclocker
New member
i can't find a explanation on this pancake 034-129-101b valve and its fonction ...
how can i test ? to see if she's bad
would i be loosing boost ?
how can i test ? to see if she's bad
would i be loosing boost ?
The Overclocker
New member
UPDATE !!!
i installed a Boost gauge to know exactly whats going on with boost ...
im at 5 psi peaking at 6-7 psi ...
got that p1136 code again .. cleared it .. at idle im at 3.20G/S according to the mass air flow ... thats way to low .. should be around 15 g/s !?
should i still open the cat to see if the turbo's flap is still nicely shut and in place ? or is this my pancake valve doing this ? ?
thank you !
waiting on some input
i installed a Boost gauge to know exactly whats going on with boost ...
im at 5 psi peaking at 6-7 psi ...
got that p1136 code again .. cleared it .. at idle im at 3.20G/S according to the mass air flow ... thats way to low .. should be around 15 g/s !?
should i still open the cat to see if the turbo's flap is still nicely shut and in place ? or is this my pancake valve doing this ? ?
thank you !
waiting on some input
Damn tu peak à 7 psi alors que tu devrais peaker à 18 psi ?
Chercher pas plus loin... LOL
Ya définitivement de quoi qui marche pas avec ton turbo ou avec ton circuit de vacuum .... mais je connais absolument rien aux euro donc je ne peut pas t'en dire plus.
Uncle Helmut
New member
I think you should look at cat-cons now
The Overclocker
New member
update
i took off the cat and the flap is still there and its preaty tight so thats good, and the cat looks in good shape as well
i even performed a smoke test leak and its not leaking anywhere ..
i went to check on the pancake valve i ordered and it performs like mine, if you blow both ways flow will pass true , so no point on changing that, i returned it
but wile we pulled out the cat and the 02 sensor .... i noticed something strange ....
the 02 sensor bong was 100% white .. why is that ?!
and the vag com reading are weird .. too much fluctuation .. , i will upload a video later of this ... its weird
and the knock sensor cyl #4 is weird .. all of cyl 1 , 2 , 3 are about in the 0.600v h +-, the cyl 4 0.950v is weird and when i rev it get even worst
i took off the cat and the flap is still there and its preaty tight so thats good, and the cat looks in good shape as well
i even performed a smoke test leak and its not leaking anywhere ..
i went to check on the pancake valve i ordered and it performs like mine, if you blow both ways flow will pass true , so no point on changing that, i returned it
but wile we pulled out the cat and the 02 sensor .... i noticed something strange ....
the 02 sensor bong was 100% white .. why is that ?!
and the vag com reading are weird .. too much fluctuation .. , i will upload a video later of this ... its weird
and the knock sensor cyl #4 is weird .. all of cyl 1 , 2 , 3 are about in the 0.600v h +-, the cyl 4 0.950v is weird and when i rev it get even worst
The Overclocker
New member
only sparks , didint get the code for coil pack missfire
on the other hand, the code came up again .. and p1136 = vacuum leak and i have no leak .. and p1136 = if no leak = pcv crank case ..
i'm going to order the tube coming out the crank case, the T , the pcv + the line from pcv to Y connector ... i'm donne fucking around ..
The Overclocker
New member
The Overclocker
New member
The Overclocker
New member
i really just hope its this ... if it is .. then imma be boosting 18 motha fucking psiii !!
but im trying to keep it cool ... just hope for this joyful day to come...
but im trying to keep it cool ... just hope for this joyful day to come...
A.K.
New member
No need for the pancake valve, you can actually delete that whole section from the TIP to the cold side of the block (metal pipe included) and it will cost a hell lot less than relacing all the shitty PCV system. 034 has a breather adapter for under $40.
I would bet all my money on a boost leak (probably you have one on the cold side) where under boost something is collapsing or opening up and your car can't build more boost than 7psi. Check under your car at the connections to the side mount intercooler....I am pretty sure it's all oily.
2nd option- spark plugs.
BTW the honeycomb made of palladium and rhodium in your cat converter when failing breaks up and shoots it's self out little by little, i've never seen a AEB clog up.
Boost guage is your friend, 17-18psi on full boost with spikes at 20 is what you should get.
At idle your should not go below 18in/hg
I would bet all my money on a boost leak (probably you have one on the cold side) where under boost something is collapsing or opening up and your car can't build more boost than 7psi. Check under your car at the connections to the side mount intercooler....I am pretty sure it's all oily.
2nd option- spark plugs.
BTW the honeycomb made of palladium and rhodium in your cat converter when failing breaks up and shoots it's self out little by little, i've never seen a AEB clog up.
Boost guage is your friend, 17-18psi on full boost with spikes at 20 is what you should get.
At idle your should not go below 18in/hg