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Un char dropper la, ces tu plus économique sur le gaz vs un char pas dropper?

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Oui mais la difference dois pas etre enorme.

Un truck lifter par exemple la ca parait (en prime avec les plus gros pneu la plupart du temps)
 
so i went to Napi with my 36 year old motorcycle and now it's done. It won't start anymore because it keeps draining the battery. More importantly, when I push-started it, it would run for a little while, and then die if I didn't keep it at 2,000 rpm or more. It doesn't have an alternator, rather a stator (or dynamo?), so I'm pretty sure that's done and needs to be replaced...but...isn't that just a set pf spinning magnets? How does that wear out? Corrosion? Why did it coincide with me push it do its limits at the drag strip? Could I have worn it out in some way? Do I have to replace it or can I clean it up?
 
so i went to Napi with my 36 year old motorcycle and now it's done. It won't start anymore because it keeps draining the battery. More importantly, when I push-started it, it would run for a little while, and then die if I didn't keep it at 2,000 rpm or more. It doesn't have an alternator, rather a stator (or dynamo?), so I'm pretty sure that's done and needs to be replaced...but...isn't that just a set pf spinning magnets? How does that wear out? Corrosion? Why did it coincide with me push it do its limits at the drag strip? Could I have worn it out in some way? Do I have to replace it or can I clean it up?
Had similar issue with my cbr600 f2, take a look at your regulator/rectifier and the plugs around it, they might be toasted.

It was a common issue on mine, the connector would toast. I just connected the wires directly and no problem since.

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rectifier or bad stator. rotor don't go bad unless armed in a crash.

Search a bit on google and you'll find how to test the stator with a ohms tester.
 
Alright, I need to speak to a chemist.

I need to know what causes oxidation in an oxygen-deprived environment. For example, how does rust creep, or even form, in a case where steel is painted? I understand that it’s possible there were contaminants and oxides even before any protective coating was applied, but once all the oxygen is used up on that surface area, there is no more iron that can be converted into iron oxide, therefor the volume of rust should remain the same for as long as there is no more oxygen exposed to any more iron. If paint hasn’t cracked, it has a certain flexibility that literally seals its steel sheeting from any oxygen penetration.

…so how is this sheet metal bubbling from underneath the paint? The other side of the sheet metal shows no sign of any oxidation and is also coated with a rust inhibitor. The problem is definitely coming from the painted side of the sheet.
 
de la peinture c'est pas toujours 100% imperméable a l'oxygene

un micro-fissure(non visible a l'oeil) peut laissé passer des molécule d'oxygene

Tout comme des pneu qui dégonfle sans aucune fuite.....l'oxygene est une assez petite molécule qu'elle peut s'échappé/se faufillé en dehors du pneu sans aucune fuite.
 
de la peinture c'est pas toujours 100% imperméable a l'oxygene

un micro-fissure(non visible a l'oeil) peut laissé passer des molécule d'oxygene

Tout comme des pneu qui dégonfle sans aucune fuite.....l'oxygene est une assez petite molécule qu'elle peut s'échappé/se faufillé en dehors du pneu sans aucune fuite.

Mais une peinture ''neuve''? Elle ne devrait pas avoir de fissure.
 
Oui mais la difference dois pas etre enorme.

Un truck lifter par exemple la ca parait (en prime avec les plus gros pneu la plupart du temps)

St'encore drôle, mon trucklette est stock mais mes pneus sont 5.2% plus gros que d'origine ( 225/70/16 vs 215/65/16 ) et il consomme moins qu'avec les plus petit pneus et oui j'ai pris en considération le km additionnel créé par les plus gros pneu. C'est vraiment du cas par cas, évidement si ton véhicule arrive sur le 29" et tu lui met du 35" attend toi de consommer pas mal plus, surtout si tu changes pas le ratio des diff.

Les éconobox que le moteur rev inutilement trop haut sur la dernière vitesse à 100kmh serait probablement avantagé par de plus gros pneus, le problème c'est que sur une voiture le jeu est trop minime et tu peux presque pas grossir sans que ça frotte, surtout l'hiver avec la marde qui s'accumule si tu as pas assez d'espace.
 
Alright...this is pissing me off. In the morning, just as I head out to drive, the first few clutch releases from a standstill in 1st gear are met with a terrible shudder and vibration, almost as if the clutch catches and releases 10x/sec. It gets better as I drive, and by the 3rd intersection, it's almost back to normal. I've tried several things; releasing extremely slowly, very slowly with a little more gas, rolling stops for the first few intersections, "warming up" the clutch surface as the car is idling by depressing repeatedly the clutch pedal. Nothing works. It always shudders quite violently on take off. I've been very easy on my clutch its entire life, and my car has 90,000 km on it. I've noticed my dad's Mazda6 suffers from this quite a bit, but he's always been really hard on his car; I always assumed he glazed his clutch at one point. But me? I've never let my clutch slide at all, even up hill, I don't think I even hit 1,000 rpm.

Funny enough, this doesn't happen at the end of the day when I leave work; only in the morning, like there's moisture on the surface...except it's only been happening in the last 5,000 km. I don't remember experiencing this before then.

Has anyone else experienced this? What is causing this, and is there a remedy without replacing my clutch? I've never had this on any of my other manual cars.
 
Alright...this is pissing me off. In the morning, just as I head out to drive, the first few clutch releases from a standstill in 1st gear are met with a terrible shudder and vibration, almost as if the clutch catches and releases 10x/sec. It gets better as I drive, and by the 3rd intersection, it's almost back to normal. I've tried several things; releasing extremely slowly, very slowly with a little more gas, rolling stops for the first few intersections, "warming up" the clutch surface as the car is idling by depressing repeatedly the clutch pedal. Nothing works. It always shudders quite violently on take off. I've been very easy on my clutch its entire life, and my car has 90,000 km on it. I've noticed my dad's Mazda6 suffers from this quite a bit, but he's always been really hard on his car; I always assumed he glazed his clutch at one point. But me? I've never let my clutch slide at all, even up hill, I don't think I even hit 1,000 rpm.

Funny enough, this doesn't happen at the end of the day when I leave work; only in the morning, like there's moisture on the surface...except it's only been happening in the last 5,000 km. I don't remember experiencing this before then.

Has anyone else experienced this? What is causing this, and is there a remedy without replacing my clutch? I've never had this on any of my other manual cars.

It's because you are too gentle. Try beat the shit out of it !
 
Alright...this is pissing me off. In the morning, just as I head out to drive, the first few clutch releases from a standstill in 1st gear are met with a terrible shudder and vibration, almost as if the clutch catches and releases 10x/sec. It gets better as I drive, and by the 3rd intersection, it's almost back to normal. I've tried several things; releasing extremely slowly, very slowly with a little more gas, rolling stops for the first few intersections, "warming up" the clutch surface as the car is idling by depressing repeatedly the clutch pedal. Nothing works. It always shudders quite violently on take off. I've been very easy on my clutch its entire life, and my car has 90,000 km on it. I've noticed my dad's Mazda6 suffers from this quite a bit, but he's always been really hard on his car; I always assumed he glazed his clutch at one point. But me? I've never let my clutch slide at all, even up hill, I don't think I even hit 1,000 rpm.

Funny enough, this doesn't happen at the end of the day when I leave work; only in the morning, like there's moisture on the surface...except it's only been happening in the last 5,000 km. I don't remember experiencing this before then.

Has anyone else experienced this? What is causing this, and is there a remedy without replacing my clutch? I've never had this on any of my other manual cars.


Même chose avec notre Mazda 3 2014, jamais eu ce problème avec aucune autre auto manuel avant. Le matin quand c'est pas trop chaud, pas trop froid et qu'il y a de l'humidité, la clutch va donner des vibrations
 
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