Ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask

I dont think anything electrical related can "fail on purpose" but in the last 15 years there definitely has been more parts that wear down faster on a engine in order to create more work/maintenance. The part in place is cheaper to manufacture/install and needs replacement sooner, win/win for them. Plastic timing chain guides on numerous motors are a good example of this.

And then you have the newer cars moving to direct injection. Alot more expensive parts(high pressure pump, lines, injectors, etc...) and also will require cleaning on the intake valves eventually(more maintenance), all that for 1L/100kms maybe.

In the end, the consumer lose and has to pay more.

Plastic timing chain guides are used to keep noise down.

Direct injection is used more for performance. Smaller engines are being used and being required to force more requiring fuel systems to increase efficiency.

Consumers want everything for as cheap as possible, can't blame manufactures for "lowering" quality.
 
une bonne batterie d'auto en forme avec son plein voltage + ou - 12.60v ne gèlera pas à -30 même dans un banc de neige, en bas de 12 c'est autre chose

beaucoup de booster pack on des batterie type AGM , je crois seulement que tu auras moins de cranking de disponible !


La seule chose à ne pas oublier, c`est de 1 fois au 1-2 mois, de s'assurer de remettre une pleine charge sur la batterie si on veut que elle dure longtemps!

Thanks.
Je la charge tout les mois et au 2 semaines par temps digne de l'Articque , ou apres utilisation.
 
Heres what iv always wondered.

How long are you suppose to warm your car? Articles say "you only need about 30 seconds!" But those articles are written by americans who consider -10 freezing.

Im more concerned about -30 weather like today. I just drove to work and my car had difficulty getting into 2nd coz it was so cold..
 
in this computer age, do you guys think car manufacturers have the ability to make cars fail "on purpose"?

I remember back when I was studying engineering, this prof told us about how most car manufacturers can make cars that can last a life time yet they 'time' their parts to go out otherwise there wouldn't be much of a business. Perhaps that's also why most cars start to see problems after 3-4 years (conveniently when the warranty runs out)
 
I remember back when I was studying engineering, this prof told us about how most car manufacturers can make cars that can last a life time yet they 'time' their parts to go out otherwise there wouldn't be much of a business. Perhaps that's also why most cars start to see problems after 3-4 years (conveniently when the warranty runs out)

Im sure parts arent designed to fail after a set period of time but rather are engineered to have a certain lifespan. I know thats literally the same thing but im sure from a legal pov its important :laugh:

when you think of it. It makes more sense to cut cost and make a car that has an average lifespan of X. Instead of over engineering it to last since the client will still buy a new car after 3-4 years.
 
Im sure parts arent designed to fail after a set period of time but rather are engineered to have a certain lifespan. I know thats literally the same thing but im sure from a legal pov its important :laugh:

when you think of it. It makes more sense to cut cost and make a car that has an average lifespan of X. Instead of over engineering it to last since the client will still buy a new car after 3-4 years.

Pretty much hits the nail on the head.

Most parts are engineered to last so many cycles in such conditions, and they know X% of those parts will fail before warranty, which is acceptable to them.
"they don't build'em like they used to" is entirely accurate since pretty much every part on a car has been carefully examined to determine exactly how much durability and reliability they need to have at the lowest cost possible.

But I do believe they cost maximum costs to get just the minimum amount of desired durability into the more expensive parts. If the thing wears out after 5-6 years, chances are it's the 2nd owner that'll have to worry about it, not the 1st owner, especially in the case of today's luxury cars.
 
But I do believe they cost maximum costs to get just the minimum amount of desired durability into the more expensive parts. If the thing wears out after 5-6 years, chances are it's the 2nd owner that'll have to worry about it, not the 1st owner, especially in the case of today's luxury cars.

Very true. The current crop of luxury cars is insane in regards to tech. It's all nice and dandy but who will want to own these cars once they are out or warranty? Not me that's for sure...
 
Comment qu'on chauffe manuel?

Pendant que le char est au neutre tu pese sul brake, t'enleve le brake a bras, appuie sur l'accélérateur au maximum, force pour rentrer la 1ere vitesse, un coup qu'elle est entrée pese sur la clutch au fond et relache la tout de suite apres d'un coup sec. Quand le char va arreter d'accelerer, ne lache pas le gaz, pese sa clutch, passe de la 1ere à la 2e vitesse, relache la clutch le plus lentement possible et ensuite on répete cette étape pour passer de la 2 à 3 et ainsi de suite.
 
Comment qu'on chauffe manuel?

Pèse sua clutch, embraye première, pèse a fond sul gaz, drop la clutch en sauvage et fait pareil pour les autre vitesse,
voilllaaaa,
maintenant tu sait conduire manuelle.
 
Heres what iv always wondered.

How long are you suppose to warm your car? Articles say "you only need about 30 seconds!" But those articles are written by americans who consider -10 freezing.

Im more concerned about -30 weather like today. I just drove to work and my car had difficulty getting into 2nd coz it was so cold..

Same here. Some people say "Drive it as soon as you started it" and other "wait until oil is fully warmed".

I've always said when it's below -10C, let it idle the time it takes to remove snow/ice on it. So maximum 2 to 4 minutes.
 
Heres what iv always wondered.

How long are you suppose to warm your car? Articles say "you only need about 30 seconds!" But those articles are written by americans who consider -10 freezing.

Im more concerned about -30 weather like today. I just drove to work and my car had difficulty getting into 2nd coz it was so cold..

Same here. Some people say "Drive it as soon as you started it" and other "wait until oil is fully warmed".

I've always said when it's below -10C, let it idle the time it takes to remove snow/ice on it. So maximum 2 to 4 minutes.

Just wait for the RPM to go down from cold start idle(1000-1200rpm) to normal idle(6-800rpm). And dont beat on it until it's warm.

Manual trans will always be harder to shift in cold weather since there is no combustion or oil pressure to heat up the gear oil, it's only warmed by the gears meshing together. Without a load on the gears(car not moving), there is almost no heat created.
 
Heres what iv always wondered.

How long are you suppose to warm your car? Articles say "you only need about 30 seconds!" But those articles are written by americans who consider -10 freezing.

Im more concerned about -30 weather like today. I just drove to work and my car had difficulty getting into 2nd coz it was so cold..
1 regular smoke is the perfect time

1 - Start the car
2- Get out the car
3- light up your smoke
4- smoke
5- when it's done walk in circle around the car 2 or 3 times so you don't bring the smoke fragrance inside.

Now the car is warmed up !



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so my dad just got told something interesting by a Ford salesman.

He's currently looking for a pickup truck to be able to tow his roulotte. We're trying to get him into a Ford F150 with the 2.7TT, which is the later engine with compacted graphite iron block (as opposed to aluminum), gets better fuel mileage than the other motors whether it's towing or not, reliability and durability seems good.

My dad was wondering if he even needed to have 4-wheel drive. It's not like he's going to need it towing, he won't use it in the winter, he doesn't do offroading. So the salesman told him to get it for weight distribution. Apparently, without it, the front is too light and the trailer tends to sway more. Is this total BS? Or is this partial BS? I've never heard anyone suggest to get 4WD for weight distribution.
 
^ Woah! Now thats interesting!

Im very skeptical about that claim as
There's an iron block v6 in the front which is pretty damn heavy.


I have a feeling hes slightly right. Maybe itll slightly improve weight distribution. But im willing to bet that hes greatly exaggerating the effects in order to make a better sale.
 
so my dad just got told something interesting by a Ford salesman.

He's currently looking for a pickup truck to be able to tow his roulotte. We're trying to get him into a Ford F150 with the 2.7TT, which is the later engine with compacted graphite iron block (as opposed to aluminum), gets better fuel mileage than the other motors whether it's towing or not, reliability and durability seems good.

My dad was wondering if he even needed to have 4-wheel drive. It's not like he's going to need it towing, he won't use it in the winter, he doesn't do offroading. So the salesman told him to get it for weight distribution. Apparently, without it, the front is too light and the trailer tends to sway more. Is this total BS? Or is this partial BS? I've never heard anyone suggest to get 4WD for weight distribution.

-How much is he going to pull? Weight and also, size of the roulotte. What's the frontal area like? The 2.7TT, while being an awesome motor, is far from being the powerhouse the 3.5TT or 5.0 is. As for fuel economy, smaller motor towing, it'S gonna go WAY up there, I dont believe what the salesman said at all there. Will it do it? Probably without issue, is it the best way to do it? Fuck no. I'd take a 5.0L anytime over a small bore turbo motor if the no1 thing the truck will do is towing. Think of the 2.7TT like an awesome "city truck" motor. Enough juice for the soccer moms who drive a 4-door F150 around town with the kids kinda deal.

-How long does he plan on keeping it? Resale value of a 2wd truck is next to nil. Like zero, nada, niet, zero interest from anyone. Despite the extra cost up front, I would never buy a 2wd truck. Not to mention most dealers have none in stock. If they do, they are stuck with then and looking for someone to sell it to very hard.

-Weight distribution? BS... unless you plan on towing 10000lbs then you should get a V8, not the 2.7TT to begin with.

My 2 cents on this...
 
^ Woah! Now thats interesting!

Im very skeptical about that claim as
There's an iron block v6 in the front which is pretty damn heavy.


I have a feeling hes slightly right. Maybe itll slightly improve weight distribution. But im willing to bet that hes greatly exaggerating the effects in order to make a better sale.

I know, right? I feel the same. It's probably not false since, yes weighing down the front should stabilize everything at highway speed. But...really? By how much? I would think the F150 is heavy enough in the front not to even hint at any swaying. Today's trucks are much more robust and better build than yesterday's, and the 2.7TT surely isn't a 'light' engine. It's still an iron block V6 with 2 turbos, intercooler, a big radiator, trans oil cooler (he's getting the towing package) and the new 10-speed automatic which looks like it weighs about 1/3 of my car alone.

-How much is he going to pull? Weight and also, size of the roulotte. What's the frontal area like? The 2.7TT, while being an awesome motor, is far from being the powerhouse the 3.5TT or 5.0 is. As for fuel economy, smaller motor towing, it'S gonna go WAY up there, I dont believe what the salesman said at all there. Will it do it? Probably without issue, is it the best way to do it? Fuck no. I'd take a 5.0L anytime over a small bore turbo motor if the no1 thing the truck will do is towing. Think of the 2.7TT like an awesome "city truck" motor. Enough juice for the soccer moms who drive a 4-door F150 around town with the kids kinda deal.

-How long does he plan on keeping it? Resale value of a 2wd truck is next to nil. Like zero, nada, niet, zero interest from anyone. Despite the extra cost up front, I would never buy a 2wd truck. Not to mention most dealers have none in stock. If they do, they are stuck with then and looking for someone to sell it to very hard.

-Weight distribution? BS... unless you plan on towing 10000lbs then you should get a V8, not the 2.7TT to begin with.

My 2 cents on this...

I think his trailer is about 6,000 lbs. I'll have to get back to you on that. 2 axles, 27' I think? It's a good size, honestly.

He's been pulling it with a 2013 Volkswagen Touareg 3.0L TDI for 4 years now (but is now having some suspension issues, since the Touareg isn't really designed to be hauling stuff like that). The 2.7TT has the same torque rating as Volkswagen's 3.0 TDI (400 ft-lbs), but with almost 100 more horsepower (since it can rev higher). I've driven my dad's TDI pulling that exact trailer and let me tell you, you could accelerate up a decent hill with that trailer no problem and still have plenty of torque left over. It's a real beast and I have no doubt the 2.7TT, which was built to accommodate a construction environment, would tow that trailer 4-5 times / summer without an issue.

I was also sceptical about Ford's turbo motors being used in a truck, but I've read enough personal experiences to be quite at ease with it. It seems Ford really did put a lot of R&D into it and I'm confident it'll last a long time.

I keep sidetracking; he'll probably keep it a good 10 years I think, and then sell it. For the resale...yeah, I kind of agree. I can't remember a single time I've heard anyone going out and buying a 2WD truck. Everyone wants the 4WD whether they use it or not, so yeah, maybe it's worth it for him to get it, despite the upfront cost, higher weight and slightly poorer fuel economy associated to it.

also, the 3.5TT, while being more expensive than the 5.0L and 2.7TT, is actually a 'generation 1' ecoboost without some of the improvements incorporated in the 2.7TT, which is a 'generation 2' ecoboost. The 3.5TT is an aluminum block, they upgraded the 2.7TT was upgraded to CGI. The 3.5TT does have 40hp and 45 ft-lbs over the smaller engine, and makes torque a little earlier, but I don't think the uprated cost is worth it for him.

jesus, /wall o'text; i'm gonna ruin my own thread.
 
in this computer age, do you guys think car manufacturers have the ability to make cars fail "on purpose"?

Absolutely, engineers can calculate the life cycle of every part. They take in consideration the optimal environment in which the car will be used, then tweak the dimensions, material and material purity of said part. They run a couple of tests and when the part fails at a certain time, let's say 90% of the time, they manufacture it as such. They can give you the failure of a part within weeks or months.

Had a professor who worked at Hyundai doing just that on transmission gears, guy was a fucking genius.
 
Les 2 dernier truck a mon pere ont été des 4x4 pcq le dealer en avait en stock et blablabla...en 5 ans il a du s'en servir 3fois et c'était juste comme "safety pcq le bouton est la" que par nécessité. avant ca a toujours été des RWD.
Mon F150 est RWD et je veut rien savoir d'un 4x4.
la valeur de revente est la quand meme...juste que c'est plus long a vendre. (tout comme un 4x4 overprice va l'etre)

c'Est sur qu'un RWD tout nu: ca vaut pas grand chose(tout comme un 4x4)...mais un bien équipé garde ca valeur.

pour tirer une roulotte: le 4x4 weight distribution thing: est de la bullshit. c'Est le hitch qui va faire la job du weight distribution.....pas le fait qui a un transfer case en avant ou non!
pour 6-7000 lbs le 2,7EB devrait faire la job...mais il faut pas qu'il ai peur de mettre le gaz au plancher..... qu'il s'attende pas a avoir les performance du touareg en montant un côté(meme si les chiffre sont pareil).....et surtout pas la consommation en tirant la roulotte.
 
I can say from experience it isn't easy trying to sell a RWD pickup, been trying to sell my Canyon for a couple months now. Couple of bites of interest but almost all the time once they find out it isn't 4x4 they stop answering. It depends on what you need a truck for, and after owning a RWD pickup for a bit over two years it becomes an issue maybe 2 or 3 times a year where you wish it was 4x4. It's gotten stuck in the weirdest of ways sometimes, like all it needs is an inch of ice in the wrong spot and it won't want anything to do with getting out of its parking spot. You can put it in drive and release the brake and you just see the rear wheels spinning without it moving forward. From the amount of times I go way up north in the ZECs and go in areas with deep snow I realized I need a 4x4.
 
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