brakes fade?

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eg_10_

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My friend went to the track today with his GTI mk5 and after 2 sessions of 20 mins his brake felt soft and didn<t brake nearly as well on the road after. He had to brake a lot earlier than usual.

What is the problem ?

The pads still have a lot of meat and they didn<t seam hot or anything. Discs are fine.

Is it the fluid ? Oem pads ?

Thanks
 
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All of the above ... Des brakes stocks ça ne tough pas vraiment la run en piste. Des pads et du fluide qui résistent mieux à la chaleur sont de mise, des lignes en stainless un "nice to have", et un outil pour saigner les lignes de freins un "MUST"
 
nah he probably just have some ''glaze'' on them which happen sometimes when tracking a car with high braking sessions....

If the problems continue tell him to remove his brakes and sand them then put them back on ...

Its what I've been told to do
 
Moi je dirais la même chose que GTI2002, les pads OEM fonctionne pour une certaine plage de température (usage de rue) et quand tu as un véhicule lourd (une GTI MK5 C'EST LOURD)+pads oem et que tu vas faire du lapping, tu battis beaucoup de chaleur donc ton pad devient inaproprié pour ton application et tu transfers la chaleur dans ton liquide de frein.


Mais si tu veux t'amuser à sabler tes disques, vas-y fort:dunno:
 
all of the above ... Des brakes stocks ça ne tough pas vraiment la run en piste. Des pads et du fluide qui résistent mieux à la chaleur sont de mise, des lignes en stainless un "nice to have", et un outil pour saigner les lignes de freins un "must"

x3....
 
nah he probably just have some ''glaze'' on them which happen sometimes when tracking a car with high braking sessions....

If the problems continue tell him to remove his brakes and sand them then put them back on ...

Its what I've been told to do

That will do nothing for fluid fade (which is the problem described).

Moi je dirais la même chose que GTI2002, les pads OEM fonctionne pour une certaine plage de température (usage de rue) et quand tu as un véhicule lourd (une GTI MK5 C'EST LOURD)+pads oem et que tu vas faire du lapping, tu battis beaucoup de chaleur donc ton pad devient inaproprié pour ton application et tu transfers la chaleur dans ton liquide de frein.

Mais si tu veux t'amuser à sabler tes disques, vas-y fort:dunno:

+1

If the brake pedal becomes rock hard and you still have little braking power, you have pad fade.

If the brake pedal goes SOFT, but you still have some brakes, its fluid fade.
 
thanks ....

tomorrow = perry auto = dot 4 fluid


ps: why didn<t I have the same problem on my s2k ? everything is stock ??????
 
The OEM VW pads aren't that terrible but they aren't the best. Bleed the brakes with some new fluid and you'll be good.

You didn't have the same problem on the S2K because the brakes have proper cooling and the car is lighter.

Personally I always sand the brakes to solve fade issues. Works 60% of the time every time. However when installing new pads you should always sand the rotors to remove the glaze from the old pads
 
nah he probably just have some ''glaze'' on them which happen sometimes when tracking a car with high braking sessions....

If the problems continue tell him to remove his brakes and sand them then put them back on ...

Its what I've been told to do


Who told you that? Trish?

You sand the rotors to break the glaze from an old set of pads when you are installing a new set. Basically you want to have a proper surface so the new pad material has something to set into. As I mentioned before OEM VW pads (Jurid or Pagids) aren't that terrible but you should really change the fluid and perhaps add more cooling somehow.
 
My friend went to the track today with his GTI mk5 and after 2 sessions of 20 mins his brake felt soft and didn<t brake nearly as well on the road after. He had to brake a lot earlier than usual.

What is the problem ?

The pads still have a lot of meat and they didn<t seam hot or anything. Discs are fine.

Is it the fluid ? Oem pads ?

Thanks


Eric,

I am surprised that you ask this question after the lengthy conversation we had about brakes and the track's effect on them....
He said that the pads had very little meat left.....
the next choice is very clear!!!
 
Eric,

I am surprised that you ask this question after the lengthy conversation we had about brakes and the track's effect on them....
He said that the pads had very little meat left.....
the next choice is very clear!!!

The pads are thin enough to need immediate replacement, but still way too thick to be completely ineffective at breaking (or at least I think). Maybe 3-4 mm in front and 2-3 mm in the back... :(

The discussion we had indeed helped me understand why my brakes were performing poorly on the track. The thing is that the problem stayed while driving on my way home and even this morning on my way to work. soft pedal, goes to the floor and very little breaking.

Guess I'll get new pads and fluid, as I was due either way, but I don't even mind because yesterday with ASE was such a blast. :bigup:
 
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yes thats the thing i dont understand ... pedal just kept staying soft on the road after everything cooled down.


halo : sa fais tu une si grosse difference que avec oem ? ( hp+ , brembo )
javais verifier au dealer et cestait ridiculement pour les pieces, jai calculer avec carl et sa revenais beaucoup moins cher avec du hp+ et brembo que oem
 
yes thats the thing i dont understand ... pedal just kept staying soft on the road after everything cooled down.


halo : sa fais tu une si grosse difference que avec oem ? ( hp+ , brembo )
javais verifier au dealer et cestait ridiculement pour les pieces, jai calculer avec carl et sa revenais beaucoup moins cher avec du hp+ et brembo que oem

Moins cher et beaucoup plus performant... OUI, ca fait une énorme différence... :p Mes pads OEM, ça pas prit beaucoup de temps les toaster. :)
 
The pads are thin enough to need immediate replacement, but still way too thick to be completely ineffective at breaking (or at least I think). Maybe 3-4 mm in front and 2-3 mm in the back... :(

The discussion we had indeed helped me understand why my brakes were performing poorly on the track. The thing is that the problem stayed while driving on my way home and even this morning on my way to work. soft pedal, goes to the floor and very little breaking.

Guess I'll get new pads and fluid, as I was due either way, but I don't even mind because yesterday with ASE was such a blast. :bigup:

Well, the fluid was probably hot enough to boil, and this added air to you brake lines. Air is compressible, brake fluid is not, so this is why your pedal is soft.

You should change pads & fluid right away.

As for cooling, most cars now come with protector plates. Removing them may improve cooling somewhat :bigup:
 
The pads are thin enough to need immediate replacement, but still way too thick to be completely ineffective at breaking (or at least I think). Maybe 3-4 mm in front and 2-3 mm in the back... :(

The discussion we had indeed helped me understand why my brakes were performing poorly on the track. The thing is that the problem stayed while driving on my way home and even this morning on my way to work. soft pedal, goes to the floor and very little breaking.

Guess I'll get new pads and fluid, as I was due either way, but I don't even mind because yesterday with ASE was such a blast. :bigup:

3-4mm is finished and should be changed. As the pad gets thinner the heat transfers fast to the caliper and thus heats the fluid quicker.

The pedal still felt odd on the car because the fluid is boiled over.
 
halo : as tu eu besoin de changer pour du dot 4 avec des sessions de 20 mins ou cest plus pour quand je ferais des plus longues journees ???

je veux pas que sa bouille
 
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